Engine overheating?

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Hi all,

Problem solved. I put the sender in a pan of boiling water and the gauge went up to 121C, Exactly 21C too high. This means the bus is running at around 110c which is just about perfect. All I need to do now is fit a convertor so that a proper sender can be fitted. I'll still fit an oil filter but no need to fit a cooler.

Best wishes,

Granite
 
Granite said:
Hi all,

Problem solved. I put the sender in a pan of boiling water and the gauge went up to 121C, Exactly 21C too high. This means the bus is running at around 110c which is just about perfect. All I need to do now is fit a convertor so that a proper sender can be fitted. I'll still fit an oil filter but no need to fit a cooler.

Best wishes,

Granite
Click to expand...
Glad you sorted it, I’m an advocate of oil temp gauges but it’s frustrating when they read wrong 🙄
 
Granite said:
Hi all,

Problem solved. I put the sender in a pan of boiling water and the gauge went up to 121C, Exactly 21C too high. This means the bus is running at around 110c which is just about perfect. All I need to do now is fit a convertor so that a proper sender can be fitted. I'll still fit an oil filter but no need to fit a cooler.

Best wishes,

Granite
Click to expand...
Glad you got to the bottom of it, had a feeling it would be that as you would’ve smelled and felt the heat 👍

Think a 20ohm resistor inline with supply to the gauge will reduce display by 20deg, it might not be linear but it’ll be near enough on the higher end 👍
 
Last edited:
I know what you mean. But, it is a bit unsettling when you fit a gauge and it gives you the wrong info. Volts and revs are not too critical but overheating could be terminal. But, if I'd not fitted the temp gauge I'd not have scared myself to death Lol.

Granite
 
matty74 said:
Glad you got to the bottom of it, had a feeling it would be that as you would’ve smelled and felt the heat 👍

Think a 20ohm resistor inline with supply to the gauge will reduce display by 20deg, it might not be linear but it’ll be near enough on the higher end 👍
Click to expand...
Mi Matty,
That's interesting, But I'm having an adapter fitted so that I can use the correct sender and fit an oil filter. Better safe than sorry.

Granite
 
67panel said:
For accuracy I meant ,I take it you were on about a new sender.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I thought you were talking about the adaptor. I have the sender that came with the gauge from Durite. The one I used was inserted into the dipstick tube. I'll be able to put my dipstick back and the sender will be fitted using the adaptor. 🫰

Granite
 
ozziedog said:
Wonderful Nigel A. :cool: Bet that looks like a Christmas Tree when you’re bombing along at night. Does anyone of those tell you how cold the Stella might be in your coolbox.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,get the priorities sorted yeah !
Click to expand...

I don't use high-intensity illumination in my gauges and my family haven't had a Christmas Tree for decades. Those few gauges are just a few of my collection! I also have an inlet-manifold vacuum gauge an ammeter, and a couple of 60 mm diameter, Lucas 8-segment warning-light clusters, as used on various 1960s & 1970s vintage BLMC Triumph cars. I was thinking about an exhaust-gas temperature gauge, but they're presently a little too expensive for my budget! The factory-standard 1968~79 VW Type 2s have far too few gauges!

I don't have a wife, mistress, girlfriend or daughter named STELLA!?! If I did, she would not be in the coolbox! If by same vague possibility you were referring to a brand of an aqueous solution of ethanol (commonly used as an industrial cleaning solvent) named Stella Artois, I never touch the stuff, or anything else that is commonly known as lager, beer or ale. The last time I bought a glass of cider, was a half-pint for £0•15 in the student-union bar, of Chelsea College, University of London, sometime during 1975~78. During 1990~91, I could have bought alcoholic beverages free of duty, in the officers' mess of the Royal Military College of Science, but I didn't drink any alcohol the whole year I was there.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelsea_College_of_Science_and_Technology

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Military_College_of_Science

The last alcoholic beverage I consumed, was a small glass of rum & Coca Cola, which was on the 75th anniversary of VE Day about 4 years ago; my second such drink since I first sampled one during the summer of 1973 in St. Kitts, when my family and I visited my father's old friend & colleague Bert Sebastian [Dr. Cuthbert Montraville Sebastian | known to his six sisters as Cutie], whom he knew from his time at Dundee Royal Infirmary. I have probably consumed less alcohol in my lifetime, than some people consume in a week!!!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuthbert_Sebastian
 
Last edited:
67panel said:
The 1679 engine in the daughters drag beetle makes 8000rpm with an odd (Brazil?) counter weight crank renound for bending according to one source. Stock rods and pistons and so far it has survived 3 years of track action.
Click to expand...

I will be interested to learn whether it survives to 25,000, 50,000, 75,000 or even 100,000 miles!?!
 
Granite said:
Thanks, I thought you were talking about the adaptor. I have the sender that came with the gauge from Durite. The one I used was inserted into the dipstick tube. I'll be able to put my dipstick back and the sender will be fitted using the adaptor. 🫰

Granite
Click to expand...

If you have the old style oil-strainer plate with six small circumferential holes for the M6 fastening screw-studs and a large central hole with a thread-size of M14 x 1•5 mm (the same as that of the wheel nuts) for a drainage plug.

What led you to believe that the dipstick-style, oil-temperature-gauge sender would be compatible with the Durite oil-temperature gauge? When I had the AD-Series VW Type 1 style air-cooled engine, I used a VDO dipstick-style, oil-temperature-gauge sender which was specifically matched to my VDO Cockpit oil-temperature gauge, as seen in the upper frame of the following annotated pictures.

2001839.jpg


A crankcase-sump oil-temperature of 110 ºC is probably a bit high for sustained driving, especially if you're using conventional mineral oil, rather than synthetic or semi-synthetic. Remember, that if the oil is 110 ºC in the sump, it will be much hotter elsewhere after picking up heat from the cylinder-heads, cylinder-barrels and bearings! The test of this, is whether your oil becomes black & sludgy over a mere 3,000 miles of running and you notice an acrid burnt-oil smell when you open the engine-compartment hatch after a run.
 
creationblue said:
I have a tacho, oil pressure and volt gauge, I don't bother with the temp gauge as I feel as long as your engine is well serviced with the valves checked regularly, and the oil pressure is healthy then there is no reason why it should overheat. I too had one of those save your bus dipsticks and it set my oil light off on the motorway, so I pulled over in a panic, this happened about 3 times on the same trip before I disconnected it!
Just maintain and enjoy your bus :)
Click to expand...

I could relate a few tales of woe from VW Motoring and Transporter Talk magazines, about engines that overheated and went bang, some of which was because people did NOT realise that the engine was overheating for various reasons; some of which included the cooling-fan ingesting paper, cloths or leaves that severely impaired the effectiveness of the cooling system.
 
Granite said:
I know what you mean. But, it is a bit unsettling when you fit a gauge and it gives you the wrong info. Volts and revs are not too critical but overheating could be terminal. But, if I'd not fitted the temp gauge I'd not have scared myself to death Lol.

Granite
Click to expand...

Too-low & too-high voltage outputs of the battery and the generator (i.e. dynamo or alternator) are also important matters. I particularly recall the case of one VWT2OC committee member, whose generator's voltage-regulator failed, resulting in extremely high output voltages, even at idling speed (later measured as 17V using a hand-held multi-meter).

This resulted in destroying his lead-acid starter battery and boiling off the sulphuric acid, which damaged much of the paintwork within the engine compartment. Had the problem been one of too-low a voltage, one would have expected the ignition warning-light to illuminate, but this would NOT illuminate with too-high voltages.

The AD-Series, VW 1600 Type 1 style air-cooled engine used in the 1971~73+ VW 1600 Type 2, was factory-fitted with a governor-style rotor-arm, with a centrifugal spring-loaded contact, that shorts out the HT ignition pulses at around 4,500 rpm, which causes the whole vehicle to judder EXTREMELY violently. This occurs in 3rd gear at about 50 mph, which is most inconvenient when accelerating on short motorway-slip-roads, to join high-speed traffic on the nearside lane.

This is enough justification for ditching the governor-style rotor-arm, substituting an adjustable smooth-cut rev-limiter [integral to my Microdynamics Formula 1 FCD electronic ignition system] and 0~6000 rpm tachometer.

https://bus-ok.nl/Rotor-arm-4500-RPM-cut-out-211905225B-t2-Bay

rotor-arm-4500-rpm-cut-out-211905225b-t2-bay.jpg


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/microdynamics.php

page1.jpg


page2.jpg


Microdynamics%20FCD%20Formula%201%20-%20A.jpg


Microdynamics%20FCD%20Formula%201%20-%20B.jpg
 
Last edited:
naskeet said:
I don't use high-intensity illumination in my gauges and my family haven't had a Christmas Tree for decades. Those few gauges are just a few of my collection! I also have an inlet-manifold vacuum gauge an ammeter, and a couple of 60 mm diameter, Lucas 8-segment warning-light clusters, as used on various 1960s & 1970s vintage BLMC Triumph cars. I was thinking about an exhaust-gas temperature gauge, but they're presently a little too expensive for my budget! The factory-standard 1968~79 VW Type 2s have far too few gauges!

I don't have a wife, mistress, girlfriend or daughter named STELLA!?! If I did, she would not be in the coolbox! If by same vague possibility you were referring to a brand of an aqueous solution of ethanol (commonly used as an industrial cleaning solvent) named Stella Artois, I never touch the stuff, or anything else that is commonly known as lager, beer or ale. The last time I bought a glass of cider, was a half-pint for £0•15 in the student-union bar, of Chelsea College, University of London, sometime during 1975~78. During 1990~91, I could have bought alcoholic beverages free of duty, in the officers' mess of the Royal Military College of Science, but I didn't drink any alcohol the whole year I was there.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelsea_College_of_Science_and_Technology

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Military_College_of_Science

The last alcoholic beverage I consumed, was a small glass of rum & Coca Cola, which was on the 75th anniversary of VE Day about 4 years ago; my second such drink since I first sampled one during the summer of 1973 in St. Kitts, when my family and I visited my father's old friend & colleague Bert Sebastian [Dr. Cuthbert Montraville Sebastian | known to his six sisters as Cutie], whom he knew from his time at Dundee Royal Infirmary. I have probably consumed less alcohol in my lifetime, than some people consume in a week!!!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuthbert_Sebastian
Click to expand...
Brilliant bud absolutely brilliant. We’ll all be camping at Bristol Volkswagen doo dah, and we’ll then be camping at Caldicot Volkswagen thingy ma jobby. If you’re anywhere in the vicinity of either, you are more than welcome to join us for an icy cold Stella (my treat) or a cider or two that I will personally pinch from one of tothers when they ain’t looking.
.P.S. And I wouldn’t lock your Mrs or mine for that matter in the coolbox, I’m not that brave.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,it does sound like you’re due a beer or two bud :) 🍻 :)
 

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