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I bought the one from CIP and it is imported so it may be the adjustable one from JK. That is a piece of crap, I have worked with mine to make it fit, but it has been a POS from day one. Even now with wood and upholstery on it, it is still not solid when you sit on it, the seat base doesn’t lock...

my OE shift rod definitely measured the 10 mm or .410" so if they are only 9mm , then they are made Wrong. You could put a 10 mm rod through the bushing in a drill, spin it and trim that notched edge of the bushing back a MM or so with a file. BUT you shouldn't have to modify a tiny bushing...

took a quick chop of the old shifter shaft with the grinder, the distance to the notch is .410" so if the bushing spacing is less than that, that would cause the notch to hang up. and the cavity behind is measuring .620" , just in case it's the OD of the notched area on the end squeezing down...

I have the original shift rod from my 71 in the garage, it was kinked badly so I had to replace it. Sooo I could measure the distance inside for the lip, or just cut it in half so we can see the cross section

our 71 came as an empty rolling body with a new paint job, so new interior with fridge and sink, solar power, 16"wheel/tire, and a subi swap, basically a modernized utility vehicle that you can daily drive with heat and defrost, and accessory diesel heater for camping.

I used a 8mm thick yoga mat glued and trimmed on the platform, I’ll use an inflatable mattress for added comfort

If you want to be able to control your ignition from a laptop, there is the Cb performance black box

Yes both are synthetic and have external filters

if you want a better spark then a CDI like the winterburn unit will give you a stronger spark http://www.capacitordischargeignition.com/

I use Driven HR4 10W-30 , I can get it down the street from work. the wifes 2110cc uses Penngrade1 10W40

you should be using the weight of oil that gives you 10 psi per 1000rpm when hot, for mine it's 10w30, because I have a blueprinted oil pump that flows well and has tight tolerances.

A little fishing line and a pair of pliers and you could leave behind some funky wind chimes at your local campground

my 71 westy , not too many pics of it out of the garage yet, finished the EJ2.5 swap last fall , and it spent all winter getting a new interior, just repairing the pop top and tent now https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2462388.jpg

My 71 westy is getting a new tent, hinges and wood/paint repair , trouble is the pop top was just sitting on top of the bus when we bought it, barely screwed in. The location for the rear roof supports has 6 different screw holes where the PO had tried to screw it down, and they were just laying...

I have mine all built except for this bar? i don't get how that is supposed to hold that pillow section up very well

do you have a local wood specialist that carries baltic birch plywood? that's what you're looking for. Its thinner layers and no voids in the plies. commonly used in homebuilt aircraft and high end cabinets, and also comes in 5 ft x 5 ft sheets, which also works great for doing the floor as well.

i don't think there was any stain on the roof panels, just whatever varnish they used in the 70's tends to yellow with age.

I bought mine from bus depot, but it looks like rock auto carries the same thing too. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=405918&start=240

did you get the correct kit for your hubs? there is one for the 944NA and one for the 944turbo, so that means something is different in the kit. Lanner can be reached on WhatsApp

The exhaust clamp and inductive clamp for rpm make it easy to use on pretty much anything https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/o2-sensor-exhaust-clamp.html