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Thanks @Raggles — with regards to the vacuum hoses, I swapped them all out for this silicon hose in the hope they will last longer: Amazon link to silicon vacuum hose These are only 3.0mm ID which is slightly smaller than the official 3.2mm (I think)—would that cause any issues?

Thanks @Moseley all help and advice are appreciated! I think I do have a timing light that I was given but I have never used one—I will try that first, and double-check the ignition components and the valves again.

I've been out on this again this evening and noted the following: The distributor is quite stiff and always tries to spring back to a "favourite" position—is this normal? The timing light I am using is always on, rather than being off and coming on. Also, it only seems to work when I rotate...

I bought an expensive repair panel from Schofields to repair my windscreen scuttle, and the quality was superb, I will definitely buy from them again. Having said that, it depends on what you are trying to do—if it's a big repair I would always recommend looking for genuine cuts from imported...

Ah, I was hoping nobody would mention the piece behind the pulley! Cheers fellas, I think I'll buy and fit a new rear piece then tackle the bit behind the pulley next time I pull the engine...

Video is attached here in case the link above fails to work.

Hi folks, I'm trying to set my engine up to drive it for the first trial drive (page 171 in Tom Wilson's "How to rebuild your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine book) however I'm concerned by what sounds like a knock, and also it's developed a regular "miss" (?!) after my initial timing and carb...

Resurrecting this thread—I have a gap in my tinware but it doesn't look like anything has been cut, I presume I have the incorrect tinware pieces? Unless this gap is meant for something else?

Auto-electrics in Redditch (website link) I've been going to them for about 20 years with all my alternators and starter motors. Really good service from Steve their expert in that area.

What a fantastic idea! Bosch starter motor was rebuilt today, ready to go back on tomorrow lunchtime—£60+VAT for those wondering.

Not a bad bit of work, it just needs some fine-tuning. Came out with a little persuasion from the angle grinder but managed to keep it in one piece so I can repair it if I ever want to put it back in. I've got a feeling the accelerator hole was slightly out of alignment too, so removing this...

The brace unbolts! I have managed to undo all but one of the bolts to get it out of the way enough to remove the starter motor :) I now need to remove the final gearbox top nut so I can withdraw the brace completely and either scrap it or modify it so it clears the starter.

So it turns out I cant remove the bolts holding the top of the gearbox—I can get the nuts off, but the bolts appear to be in some kind of box section. I'm not sure this is standard so I've taken some photos: Above the gearbox facing the rear of the vehicle, nearside. Here you can see the...

Brill thanks for the swift advice @ozziedog !

So 6 years on and I'm having the same trouble again, can't get the starter motor out. Googled it, and my own post comes up! Only thing is, now my engine is in as well as my gearbox, so I can lower the gearbox separately. The gearbox code is missing so I'm not sure of its origin, all I can see...

Here's a photo of the stickers: I'll have to check for any etching in the daylight on the weekend. I've done a lot of reading about the heating element wiring on here and over on The Samba Forum, however, this is a massive luxury job that will have to wait until I'm sure all the teething...

Cheers @mike202 yeah it's been a long road to get to this point, I'll do a full assessment on the weekend to get a definitive list of "must-fixes" before I think it's safe to take out on the road and get the engine broken in.

The screen is in! It took me a full hour of struggling to fit the seal to the screen (the join is at the top center, which I didn't expect). I then foolishly tried to add the windscreen sealant before realising it would be so much easier to do it once I had installed the screen, so I got into...

...not bad for a temporary finish! Pleasantly surprised that the WRX 321 Burgundy is quite a close rattle-can match for the original Chianti Red, though the Motip matt white leaves a lot to be desired. I used 3M Scotch blue masking tape to get the colour split. I'll give the dashboard a quick...

Huge thanks to @dude10028 for the cuts, I have now welded on the front panel and repaired the uprights! My filler work needs a bit of improvement, but I can do some fine detailing once everything else works! All in primer now ready for a blast of white tomorrow then I can finally get the heated...