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Thanks @sparkywig. But if anyone has a bit clearer picture I'd be grateful. I also need to get an idea how the loom is routed - with all the wires sticking out the top they look like they will collide with the wiper connecting arm when it's moving.

When I got my bay the fusebox bracket was all bent up and it was screwed in upside down. As I've just rewired the front section of the loom after a fire I'd like to mount the bracket properly. Problem is I don't know how the bracket is supposed to be fixed and I can't find any clear pics online...

Graham, did the fusebox go?

I had/have the same problem with my driver door lock. I have to remember not to test it's locked once I've locked it otherwise its a struggle to open it again. I have disassembled, cleaned, added new spring, and reassembled it, but it's still the same. I think there's two different springs and I...

I bought the same and it lasted 14 months. It died after I'd taken the battery out for reconditioning. After emailing them about it, they were very unhelpful and even abusive. I won't buy from them again.

Pertronix if you want to get the most reliability, or buy 2x accuspark and keep the other in your bus as a spare. Plus some points. Stay away from Powerspark though, those can easily die from a surge when you connect the battery up. Quite a few of us including me have gone back to points.

Do you not first put your foot all the way done on the accelerator before easing it off and cranking. This does two things: 1) squirts a jet of fuel directly into the carb (overdoing this floods the engine, of course) 2) Latches the accelerator to fast idle until the engine warms at which point...

Mine finally snapped, there was a crack in it for a while. I know I can get them various places, but they all seem to be dual LHD/RHD handles and therefore the hole is central. On the originals the holes are offset. Anyone got one I can buy? Thanks.

If you can't find a CTEK for a good price, then a NOCO Genius 5 is a great alternative. It also does Normal, AGM, & Lithium. I think mine was about 60 quid in Halfords.

What is a '68 bay doors lhd'? Can you be more specific?

Welcome, and I'm sure I speak for the others here when I say, please post some pictures, and maybe open a new restoration thread. It would be good to follow along and watch the progress. Also a point to get any help or advice you may want.

The controller is probably OK but it doesnt say if its PWM or MPPT. I would guess the former as the whole package is only 230 quid. As for the battery, I answered your same question on the late bay forum, and what I believe is the correct battery to get if you're going lead-acid ;) I have it...

Er, someone care to explain? Shiplee123 says "works for me :)" but the Shiplee12345 who claims to be Shiplee123 says "Still can't get into my account". Is nobody concerned his account has been hacked? Or what is going on?

What shenanigans are going on here? @Clem or @Johnny ?

Looking really nice.

Get my bloody garage built after 2 years of waiting on people to do stuff, and not even breaking ground.

Is a crossover really a late? I'd be interested to know (genuinely) the % of parts in common with early and late respectively, though I know that would be difficult to answer seeing as the bus kept changing every year.

That really does look nice.

Nice project. One question, is the motor from an i3 range extender (with petrol generator)? Otherwise I guess you are going to fit more batteries than are standard in the i3 as the standard pack would probably not give you 140 miles in a bus, as they are about as aerodynamic as a shed...

I look forward to not have the heating running all day at these prices :mrgreen: Seriously though, I look forward to spring so I can take the bus up to Scotland for the trip we've been thinking of for the last couple of years. But, without a heater in the bus, I can't really plan any trips...