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If you are stuck, cut a piece of 3"×2" or similar, longer than the tailgate is wide. Use this to brace and tie to.

Only caveman style that i know of, maybe get a length of wire or strong cord round the lock and tie it to something. Do you have tie-downs or other anchor point? or maybe a seatbelt mount, or the seat mount itself or if you have a pop top, maybe the struts. When I had my cab door locks out I...

My original was much deeper. The difference here would maybe give 1% increase in efficiency if you are lucky.

On OG pulley the "V" groove is deeper, on the alloy ones the belt sits right on the outside.

Your belt is standard size. The bigger diameter pulley will make no difference as the belt will still be the same.

Belt length will tell you if you would gain anything by changing. Most sand seal kits look pretty much standard stock size. Increasing the pulley size may improve economy slightly but the % really is minimal.

Scat make an alloy pulley at 5 5/8" and another at 6 3/4". The bigger uses same belt as OG on bus type 1 1600tp "AD" engine. What size is yours?

If you have a lathe and the right tooling and skills then it's probably the best option if you want to keep the seal in place. I bet they are a bugger to get out.

The link doesn't mention it's an undersize pulley.

What size belt do you have on that?

I'm pretty sure you can. There may be a grub screw in the handle retaining it. Put the key in and try different positions until it slides out. It will have really small brass plates inside. I can't recall if they may fall out or not! If you are careful its dooable. Google might come up with...

Good advice, my old one stuck shut after hatch rusting away around it. If it's stuck, the only way is from inside.

Not sure, but from memory i dont recall a seal that the pulley centre goes inside. The thread type groove is to push the oil back into the engine and help it breathe. Anyone feel free to correct me as its been a while since i worked on these bits. Some of the popular vendors used to sell a "Sand...

If it works for you, great. I hope you get many more years happy motoring out of it. I don't want to go all Matt Hancock on you but, i'm sticking with the science. The oil discussion is on every forum and we all have our preferences. As long as it is changed regular an engine should do OK. A...

Because modern engine oils do not contain the high levels of zinc that are allowed in racing oils as they are not regulated for mass road use, although readily available. The VR1 is not suitable for any modern cars. Zinc reduces wear + it is reasonably priced compared to any modern branded...

I went with Fusch Titan gearbox oil and Valvoline VR1 race oil for the engine. No issues yet, a few years down the line.

*Can't

I second that. Took mine to a friendly garage. He maxed out his 10 tonne press and heated until glowing with a blow torch. For most, it's something that can really be done at home.

Or...trawl around the scrappy's as these kind of clips are still used on some cars.

Mine is a '72 crosser and i have the reservoir on the front panel, behind kicks. Just pop a sealing grommet in there if you dont have the hose, with a smear of Sika or Tiger Seal if youre worried about water ingress. I use rubber lined stainless or nylon 'P' clips to hold hoses. This one can be...