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Carried on with the last bit of bare metalling today once finished there was no more hidden horrors 🙌🏻

Todays progress…. Cargo floor bare metalled, what an unpleasant ordeal that was 💀😂 but it seems the red oxide I put down years ago has kept 90% of original floor in good shape. Swept it down, de greased and coated the R/H half with Hydrate 80 just to stop any damp or moisture having a go at...

Touché

^^^^^ this! it’s some god forsaken UNC thread, don’t know why the yanks can’t just use Metric like everyone else in the developed world, especially when building parts for European vehicles which are metric! 🤦🏻 drill & tap it for an m5 heli-coil then get some studding & wing nuts to suit 👌🏻

Another alteration/improvement I’ve been playing is this because since I’ve been using the nitrous in anger I’ve been suffering with wheel hop when leaving the line. I’d already fabricated a mid mount to make use of the ‘ears’ on my 091 based race box. After discussing it with Hector and Pete at...

We cc’d the combustion chambers on the new heads Saturday. They came in at 67cc, need them at 57cc to achieve a 10:1 compression ratio. Will fly cut them at work in the next week or so. Also made myself some solid mounts for the gearbox mid mount this afternoon as work was dead lol.

Belly pans totally removed, floor and chassis cleaned then given a healthy coat of hydrate 80

Cut most of a crusty stuff out, just need to trim back a bit of the inner sill. Hopefully start putting the new metal in tomorrow 🤞🏻 The repair panels from Alan Schofield are outstanding. Cutting the belly pans off and will fit new which will be bolt on, so in future I can inspect behind...

Went to the powder coaters next door this morning and got them to aqua blast my new inlet manifolds. The raw aluminium finish looks much nicer than the shiny finish CB sell them with.

The Holley pump feeds the carbs via a matched Holley regulator set at 4psi, the other 1 is a Bosch high pressure fuel injection pump regulated down to 35psi which delivers the supplementary fuel for the nitrous system.

Now all the scraping and grinding is done I made a start at laying some protection and paint on the under side at the back. Epoxy mastic primer then a couple of good coats of paint. Not spike grade like deep shine but looks acceptable for an underside job out of a can lol. Paint dried so...

An 8kw is waaaay too big. You’ll never have it running proper hot, it may well soot up and cause issues. My 2kw keeps my bus toasty with the pop top up and even takes the edge off in the awning

I’ve got a 2kw diesel heater from eBay in my westy. Works great and keeps it nice n toasty even with the pop top up.

Get yourself a 55amp from power lite. Million times better than the generic Chinese ***** the usual suspects all sell. 75 is only required if you’re running lots of additional electrics like gauges, fuel pumps, after market ignition or big stereos etc.

the target is to have it all done for spring but we’ll see 🫣

I stumbled across it last winter when I was doing some work on my beetle. Only used it on a couple of areas but was so impressed im going all out with it on the bus 😂

For anyone who’s interested this is what I’ll be coating the underside of the bus with. Not cheap but kills rust, prevents new rust forming and cures as a primer. Got a 5 litre jug for the camper but I had this little tin kicking about.

3 days work and I’m at this stage, about 75% of the raptor is removed. Thankfully other than the jack point and small piece of the floors it’s still incredibly solid. It’s 54 yrs old and been here for 18, so I can’t be too sad really. Especially when you see the state many U.K. buses are in 🙏🏻

Honestly mate if I was to do it again I’d get a complete wilwood kit from David Slack at PCD parts. He does a literally bolt on kit for all years of bus. CNC hubs, discs, caliper brackets, braided hoses, pads and 4 pot wilwood calipers. I’ve fitted a few kits to customers buses and I’d 100% go...