Search results

Its the actual shaft that i need to get aligned properly so i can fit it into the engine casing. The engine case is built, nealry everything is ready and as soon as i can fit the shaft i probably have about 1-2 hours work left before turning the key!

Think you might be alright, found this on the DVLA web site The new vehicle insurance law - don't be caught out If you're the registered keeper of a vehicle, it must be insured at all times. The exceptions are: •if you have made a SORN for the vehicle •if your vehicle has been kept off-road...

How do i set this correctly? Think i read that the offset of the shaft needs to be pointing anti-clockwise and inserted pointing towards 1 of the fuel pump studs? Is this correct? this is the only thing stopping me finally completing the re-build

Dont forget the new insurance ruling about SORN vehicles, think they still have to be insured (unless i have read it wrong?)

With all the work you've done to it would you really want some knob thrashing the engine to within an inch of it life because they dont know how to drive it? Or causing damage to the interior in a drunken stupor (its different if you damage your own bus) because they wont respect it. Nice idea...

I've got 2 4 doweled flywheels but think postage might be stupidly high due to the fact there bloody heavy :lol:

Think this is probably the same guy that PM'd me about a carb gasket, wanted $100 (or was it Euro :? ) anyway after picking myself up off the floor from laughing i ignored him, now the PM says sent from a user no longer registered

When i had a '71 UK RHD bus the fuse box (12 fuses) was underneath the glove box on the passenger side (nearside) but on my '69 RHD African import its behind the dashboard / gauges (off side) and its a 10 way fuse box. If everythings working then i wouldn't bother whether its a 10 way or 12 way...

Yes You can fit the under cylinder tinware without removing the heads. As said just remove the rocker shafts, remove the push rods and cut through the push rod tubes, bend tinware to suit and then fit spring loaded push rod tubes and replace push rods, rocker shafts and adjust valve clearances...

Agree i think some sun might help and as for 3 nights, i'd take that i haven't even done 20 miles let alone an overnighter. To be totally honest i'm slowly losing faith in it all. Would it of been the same if i had kept my other van??? honestly i think the answer is yes. A change is as good as a...

We have thought about a T4/5 as i could them use it as a daily but to be honest if we cant find the time for camping in the bay then cant see the point in a T4/5. Im thinking more Old skool ford (mk1/Mk2 escort or a MK3 capri) and eventually becoming a 2 car family again Yeah it will be good...

To be totally honest i think the only person that will be upset will be the daughter but i'm sure a (black mailed) trip to euro disney will smooth things over. Dont me wrong, this isn't something that just happened its been building over time and with the shifts i work and when i'm off the wife...

Not that i know of :lol: Just fancy a complete change, as said just not really into the van at the moment, secretly hoping that by going to the show and then on holiday (about 4-500 miles) i will change my mind but at the moment i cant see it happening hence why im trying to gauge interest...

Seriously considering time to call it a day, just not enjoying driving the van as much as i used to, dont really get the time with the shifts i work and for some unknown reason i just haven't taken to this van. Thinking that after our holiday in July (dubz @ the castle then a week away in the...

Get a volt meter and check the voltage across the solenoid terminals next ime it re-fuses to start. Turn the key and if there is no voltage then its the switch, if there is voltage then its the solenoid getting hot and going open circuit OR high resistance in the wiring from the switch

You really need to fix your speedo :lol:

Does MILD and 2276 really belong in the same sentence? :lol: Look forward to the pics :mrgreen:

B code is a 1600 Single port dual relief case (well my B coded engine is)

The link is for the solenoid ;)

Glad to see it back up and running 8)