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Sorry Ozzie, delayed response. I’ve gone with 8” 250lb springs. They’re noticeably stiffer than the 150lb ones that were on there previously, but I wouldn’t say they were overly harsh. Adjusting the shocks has a much bigger effect on the ride quality having had a play around with them.

If you end up wanting a set of the springs (as recommended in the thread Ozzie has posted) I have a set of barely used springs as I swapped mine out for a shorter and stiffer set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think what Graham is referring to is the bolt that holds the cable end at the pedal; that needs to be ever-so-slightly loose to allow the hook to rotate as the pedal is pressed. This is basically my issue - as this hook isn’t clamped tightly, when I release the pedal, the cable has enough...

Interesting, if I do the same, the cable goes tight (carbs fully open) before the pedal hits the floor. I wasn’t sure if this was due to the lack of pedal stop, the type of dual carb linkage I’m using, or a combination of both. Either way, I can’t drive long term with it like that as I’ll end up...

Just driven it for the first time tonight, the main thing I’ve noticed is the more direct feel, but that was probably related to the kinks that were present in my previous single-strand cable (which I also think are pretty much impossible to avoid introducing when fitting). So I’m happy with...

Haha, I have been working on my crouching tiger hidden dragon! But aside from some lightning reaction speed, the issue I could foresee is that there is a spring at both the carb and pedal end. I might be over-thinking it, but the spring at the pedal end could retract the pedal too quickly and...

Well I’ve fed the braided one through today - much happier with the design and the lack of ‘kinking’ compared to the single strand ones. However, the end is a bit crap, it is more of a hook than an eyelet, and as such is not being fully held by the bolt on the accelerator linkage (Buttys Bits...

Yeh unfortunately there have been oil leaks in the past and recently in that area - both were oil cooler seals, so I certainly can’t be 100% that it is indeed weeping from that plug. The rough casting is very hard to clean! But there was a pool of oil in it, and I can’t really see how that much...

Hi folks, I believe I’ve got an issue with a weepy core plug, the one that is next to the distributor. Every time I’ve checked it, there is a pool of oil inside it, and as it is raised up from the block, I can’t see any way that oil could get into it, other than from below! How are these...

I’d suspect the second set are the ones CSP have manufactured and subsequently sell themselves. I’ve used both, and can honestly say I’d buy the CSP every time. The cheaper ones I struggled to get onto the hub splines without a bit of fettling, and they also didn’t run completely true. The CSP...

If, like me, you always wanted Wheeler Dealers to be more about the fixing side of things and less about the questionable buying / selling / story lines, I strongly urge you to try Ed China’s new show on YouTube called ‘Workshop Diaries.’ It is as close a show that I’ve seen that actually feels...

If it’s a genuine Bosch, rebuild will be no issue for an auto electrician (and certainly worth doing for reliability!). If it’s a cheap Chinese copy, parts might be a struggle.

Not sure if you’re aware, but shocks alone will make no difference to the static height - they will just change how the suspension behaves over bumps when in motion. As Clem has hinted at, coilovers will help to raise the height. The basic options that are quite commonly used on this forum mean...

Are you sure it is a standard beam - that looks incredibly low at the front just for dropped spindles; especially as you are already running a lower profile tyre than stock. It may have adjusters welded in place, or it may have been cut, turned and welded in the past - some photos of the centre...

From what I’ve seen, there are only one type of seal on offer - are there vendors out there who sell different options? I have noticed that the leaking one feels a little harder than the other. Any reason why you wouldn’t recommend Hylomar Blue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stag Wellseal was what I was advised to use, but the more I think about it / look at my photos, the fact that it has ended up between the metal faces suggest that it is maybe a little too thin for the tolerance their. To be honest, I’m a big fan of Hylomar Blue for places needing some form of...

Evening folks, I’ve (yet again) got our engine out to cure an oil cooler seal leak, that has manifested itself recently by spraying a reasonable amount of oil around the engine bay during the hot weather. The lower two seals were weeping when we bought the bus, and I subsequently changed them a...

Have you taken a look at VW Rack Shack? Quite an industrial look, but seem to only get high praise from those who’ve bought them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not the best pic, but neither engine mount bolt is in (the lower ones that is). Because they effectively sit in a V shape, it really can’t go anywhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope - mine is currently sat in that state with no nuts or bolts whilst oil pump gets some maintenance. Just don’t go jacking up the engine or gearbox once they’re out as it might shift and be a pain to get the bolts back in! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk