Search results

Something that might be worth considering based on my recent experience is the quality of the pulleys you’re using. Mine was a cheapo alternator pulley and an Empi aluminium crank pulley. The belt would always run quite slack, so I’d either be on one shim for a new belt, and zero as it broke in...

I’m running #9 on mine. I can only compare it to the 009 dizzy that was on there previous, and it has nicely got rid of the low-RPM hesitation that I used to experience when pulling away. Very happy thus far with it, and it was nice and easy to get it initially running and then set the maximum...

By the sounds of what you’ve said, you are going to need to go to 15” to suit whichever brake option you plump for. If steel wheels are your thing, I would personally recommend you look for a set of split screen wheels, some of which are affectionately called ‘crows foot’ wheels. They have a...

Thanks folks. Seems the universal one is the way to go, and I’ll keep the other one I have as a spare in the van. Hopefully that will take out a bit of the play in the pedal due to the kinks.

Other way round, by adding material to the outside of the wheel, the offset reduces - the centre line of the wheel is now further away from the hub. The Beetle steels have a very high positive offset to start with, I.e. they are quite tucked under the arches. By adding the band, it gives a nice...

If it’s any help, I’ve just fitted a set of 4” width stock Beetle wheels that have been banded outwards to 5.5” (you’d have to do the calc on what the new offset would be)! With a 195/65 tyre, it clears the arch by no more than 2 or 3mm at the rear under an early arch. There is more clearance...

Should be arriving tomorrow, M7 seem to be holding stock of them, so can’t fault that service. Supposed to be off to fake Camperjam at the weekend, something always breaks right before then!

Just my usual bowl of porridge and some tinned spinach :D Looks like this side is a budget aftermarket, probably the other is the same. I have some CSP drums on order anyway, but at least I’m not quite as annoyed about doing it now that I know they’re not original VW!

Satisfy my curiosity please, do original (rear) drums have any marking on them to state VW / part number etc? The reason for my curiosity is because the above (which is incorrect for our 68 bus anyway) has just stripped one of the wheel bolt holes. I’m certainly no he-man and I wasn’t using a...

As far as I’m aware, if you buy an accelerator cable from any of the normal vendors that suits a year / steering wheel side etc, the standard offerings are all just a single strand of steel with the relevant ends crimped on. I bought a spare for our old RHD, a spare for our current bus, and the...

Hi folks, it has always struck me that the standard single-strand accelerator cables are a bit of a crap design; they kink easily and are more prone to snapping without warning than a traditional multi-strand cable found on pedal bikes etc. I’m sure I’ve read on here that people have sourced a...

Hi, we’re running a similar setup and are as low as I’d comfortably like to be to get most of the places we want to go! We have about 1” to 1.5” of tyre travel before it would touch the wheel arch to give you an idea of the height (or check out photos in the gallery). The steering geometry is...

Likewise, I’m about to remove one of Dean’s (Gadget Boy) Westy copy tow bars from our bus, I just haven’t got around to taking pics of it in situ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Silicone sealant should really be avoided for any future ‘quick fixes’ where metalwork is involved. From memory, it is pretty acidic (acetic or ethanoic?) so if there’s any hint of broken paint leading to bare metal or rust, it will just eat it’s way through until it is done reacting. Hopefully...

All of the above is spot on advice. If the seller is struggling to work out how to create a manual invoice, they could always re-list the item with a buy it now button at your price. If they aren’t willing to do this, walk away!

Whilst I’m all for ingenuity, this seems a bit sketchy... washers are not a calibrated thickness, especially as the punching method tends to distort them, unlike a proper machined spacer. I’d be a bit concerned with the washers flattening further over time and thus loosening the drum bolts, or...

I’d say your master cylinder is pulling in air. Aside from my previous comments regarding you seeing fluid around it, if the pedal gets worse when bleeding the old fashioned way, it’s likely that the movement of the MC plunger is allowing air in. When bleeding using the pressure bleeder, you’re...

What technique are you using for bleeding? There is a mix of opinions on this, my personal preference is the old fashioned two-person method. If your problem is just a bit of residual air stuck in the system, the stop-start movement of brake fluid using this method will help to drag air bubbles...

Hmm, any fluid around the master cylinder is not good as if fluid can come out, then certainly air can come in. However, your symptoms do sound more like air still trapped in the system. A normal sign that your MC is dead is that when pumping your pedal to pressurise the system, it will slowly...

I had a similar experience some years back when the positive lead from battery to starter came out of the battery clamp. Fortunately, an easy fix by the side of the road, although it chose to happen on a particularly treacherous stretch. I’ve since changed the wiring routing such that...