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The oil may be coming to the end ... 3k plus miles and reasonably hard driving. I will change and see how I go. Thanks for the input.

I am hoping people can give me a bit of a steer with this. On my van for the first time yesterday the red oil light started flickering and coming on when coming to a stand still at road junctions. As soon as I raise the revs a little it goes out (the idle is at aprox 1000rpm). The light doesn't...

Yep ... used a blow torch to apply heat and then some gentle persuasion - wouldn't move at all. I am concerned about applying too much welly as I doubt the crank was made to take that kind of impact. I think I will see if I can't source a gear puller and try again.

Will give it a go anyway and let you know how I get on. Thanks

Thanks mr scoops. Does this work? ... or is it a suggestion to try? I had presumed it would be in effect be heating both the gear and shaft, causing both to expand rather than just the gear itself?

Made a bit of a **** up of fitting the timing gear to the crankshaft. It must have cooled quicker than I was expecting, as although it slid over pretty comfortably it has seated about 2.5mm from the seating ledge above the bearing. Any suggestions? I tried putting a piece of pipe over the top...

This might help http://www.volkzbitz.com/34pict-3---4-and-h30-31-adjustments.html

As I understand things - on the SVDA dizzy which takes its vacuum signal from the manifold, the vacuum advance will have little impact at idle when left connected as the vacuum signal is small - however you should still time with vacuum disconnected and plugged as it will have some impact. This...

Don't know what dizzy you are running so don't know what the timing should be. However if its a vacuum advance dizzy (i.e. not 009) check whether you time with the vacuum disconnected or not ( for most but not all you should disconnect) and if disconnected plug the port on the carb. Set the revs...

Was the vaccum plugged when setting the advance? What was the max advance at 3500 rpm ish ?

I used 4mm ply and in the end went for M8 x 10mm flanged button screws into the original holes. I used an M8 tap which gave a minimal thread and they screw in just fine. Might be something to consider if you draw a blank ... I liked the look of the screws. see...

:party0046: :rofl: :party0047:

Others on here will be able to answer this better. Unless excessive (spun bearing), I am not aware of end play overly effecting the oil seal. Was the end play with the original flywheel within tolerance? (If not you may have greater issues than a leaking oil seal) Is the current endplay with...

End float is measured with the Flywheel mounted. The float is set using the shims which sit behind the flywheel and are sandwiched when the flywheel is torqued up. Excessive play is indicated by movement beyond the specified tolerance despite the shims being in place indicating issues with the...

Could the oil be coming from anywhere else? Is there anyway of checking it is definitely the crankshaft seal?

I don't know about two seals ... but these seals were very highly recommended to me as better than the standard fare by Jim Clavert at Stateside - might be worth considering http://statesidetuning.co.uk/offersother.html

might be a stupid question .... but, you did remember to fit the 'O' ring seal as well into the flywheel?

nice job

could be, I'll take a look next time I have a chance ...