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I had some whistling issues with my quarter light. It was also very loose when the catch was off. I tightened up the whole mechanism and this stopped most of the issue ... but it still whistles a bit if the wind is in the wrong direction and blowing a bit.

If its a stock you are after, I got mine from Tim at Volksbitz .... a fully refurbed german solex - no complaints so far. see http://www.volkzbitz.com He exports to the UK and hails originally from Sheffield (south Yorks)

a few thoughts on this thread http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=73154

Assuming the carb is working ok..... Does this happen when the engine is warm ... or all the time? How is it when starting ... both from cold an also when fully warmed up? Check simple things like all the spade connectors to the coil are good and tight. The carbon rod is good in the...

If you are dropping the engine out, then check the flywheel while you are at it. Run your finger over the area the oil seal closes against. If there is a ridge then you might need to replace the flywheel (or have it machined). If it is badly worn then even a new oil seal won't prevent the leak.

Metal behind wool insulation will be cold due to the insulation. If any internal air finds its way through the trim panels and wool it will condense on the metal. The air itself does not seek out colder surfaces ... it simply dumps the moisture it contains when it comes up against them. If you...

I have just PM'd you with Tinware request

What is the purpose of this piece of tin? From what I can see it doesn't appear to do anything as far as cooling is concerned (regarding the directing of the airflow)? Most engines I have seen to date don't have this piece fitted?

Don't the heat riser pipes from the exhaust prevent icing? along with the hot air feed via the air filter from below the engine tin?

The original Bellows thermostats fail open ...ie safe, I believe that the Mexican ones don't. If you can get hold of one ... go that way. I picked mine up from V W Evolution who had some in - so they are around. also see...

your set up appears to be using an alternator. This would I think be the correct pump to go with the alternator. https://www.vwheritage.com/113127025g-fuel-pump-for-100mm-alternator-rod-repro Though i recall that the rod lengths vary depending upon the set up ... so needs checking.

I don't know if it is wrong, but it is different to mine. Seems odd that the fuel line is located near the fan belt.

I may be wrong but sounds like a carb adjustment issue. If it starts well from cold and then cuts out after 5 mins it could relate to the choke. Does it die completely, or does it run if you keep the revs up? If it runs with the revs up have you tried keeping it running for a while longer to see...

If you don't get a specific recommendation I generally find these guys can source most things. Give them a call they can usually advise http://clerkenwellscrews.com/html/cw_products.php?a=a&sp_cat=121&start=0

not exactly what you asked .... but I found this Samba link useful. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389074 If you can't find an old one, you might be able to improvise.

That sounds interesting. So ... the Amethyst is a DIY solution quite similar to the 123 at a more palatable cost? If so, good to have up ones sleeve if the 123 fails. If repairing the 123 proves costly, presumably in such a case you could use the 123 core and fit the amethyst much like the...

I have to admit I am not up to speed on all the technicalities. However, one of my main reasons for giving the 123 a go following on from Jim Calvert's comments (I should say Jim didn't pass an opinion on the 123 himself but said Dan at vintage speed swore by them), was that it wasn't a stock...

I have one. Originally I had a 009 which I couldn't get rid of the flat spot on. Then went through 3 different SVDAs (all new - 2 electronic and 1 points). Not happy with any (perhaps just unlucky). I was in conversation with Jim Calvert at Stateside and he said he no longer fitted new dizzys...

I can only give you my thoughts. If it was running fine and then something changed, it sounds like a failure or blockage of some sort. If the carb was running fine before ... then unless something has been put out of kilter during the rebuild, there should be no reason to replace the hardware...

You don't say if the carb was a problem before the re-build and if so whether the problem was the same. On the rebuild what did you do? Was it a tear down and service with a service kit, or did you replace bushings etc. A worn throttle shaft bushing I believe can cause problems with the air fuel...