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I'm sure custom and commercial sell those window dividers, one of the suppliers do a replacement in rott free aluminium which might be worth a punt ;)

How many beer tokens do i need to save to get one of those babies and what carbs are you running with it?, if you dont mind me asking ;)

I think the going rate for a good beam is 200-300 quid, my mate replaced his with a red 9 one, it cost a bit more, but it really is a work of art :?: ;) , thick torsion tubes and thick profiled towers, might be worth a thought

1. Check choke assembly casing screws are not loose 2. Check choke unit is correctly adjusted, it may need backing off a bit? 3. Check the choke thermo electrical device is actually working (drawing current) I'm sure there will be more to come ;)

If the chrome thingy behind the door handle is fitted 180 degrees out, the handle will not lock, found out the hard way :oops:

I've just had problems locking mine after refitting the door after a respray. After checking the mechanics of the locks on the door etc it turned out to be a poorly adjusted lock plate on the B post which also required shimming a couple of mm's from the post. Sorted now :mrgreen: Might be...

Mine broke off today, i have paypal if someone could help out and post me one. Help appreciated, James

What i do know is that the flue must exit the van externally, so there must be a gastight pipe from your fridge exiting the exterior of your bus to emit those dodgy fumes ;) . You need a external flue vent pretty much the same as those you see on caravans. Hope this is of some help, James

ERM, i guess i got carried away with all the jobs along the way, moving house, 2 camping hols in cornwall, yes in that bus 8) 8) !!!!. I have some pics i took during the prep at the paintshop which i'll try and put on ;) . I've still got several windows and interior bits to fit, indicators...

Just back from paint :cool0008:

Gonna do this too, argos here i come :party0041: :party0041: :party0041: :party0041: :party0009:

Bigger valve heads probably next 8)

Looks OK to me, what needs doing, i would definatly keep the bus, i have been doing a rolling resto on my bus for the last 3 years she's got us to devon and cornwall several times and this year she's getting her final coat of paint 8) 8) . After spending so much time restoring her i know her...

Pics as requested. Engine hatch is solid but has hole cut out behind number plate lamp and requires minor attention around lock aperture, i paid £50 but will sell for £30 if interested. Chrome pulley, needs a clean £10 Alloy rocker covers, need cleaning up £10

Hello all, Wanted:- rear side glass for early bay Front indicator bulb holder assembly for early bay (lowlight type) Solid exhaust header for bugpack mondo exhaust. Would be glad to pay cash and collect at dubfreeze and also have the opportunity to say hello in person to a fellow earlybayer...

Sounds pricey to me, cut the bump out yourself and if you weld a steel plate behind the hole using tack welds all the way round, the panel will not distort, distortion only occurs with continuous welding, so if you place a tack, leave say, 20 secs then another and so on you should be fine, a...

Should be fine, good luck by the way :wink:

I want to order some window seals for my bus, it has a vent window (quarterlight) in the sliding door and one in one of the rear windows, so i obviously need two 3/4 seals. The question is, will the same 3/4 seal item fit both rear window and the sliding door window apertures if you know what i...

A fused spur should do the trick, as long as you have some suitable form of overcurrent protection (13a fuse ok) and an RCD you should be fine :wink:

Thanks a lot for the offer, unfortunately my friend is away next weekend, so i wont know until the following week whether the problem can be resolved. This is frustrating because things are progressing in the paint shop and i reckon the next time i see my bus it will be in its topcoat, then...