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The alternator probably earths via the case if i remember correctly. One of the terminals of the voltage regulator needs to be connected to the cable which feeds the gen light on the speedo to provide a voltage sensing circuit too.

Thanks for the advice, some very useful info there, i will check to ensure i havent got the calipers upside down, i assume its possible to have them on the wrong sides perhaps, i promise i will own up if this is the case :wink: . I have also bought another type of bleeding kit which sucks the...

Thanks for the replies, the problems are with my friends bus, i agreed to help him lower it this winter via red 9 and we have encountered numerous problems including rotten front beam, rotten chassis in places, missing/ rotten rear chassis suspension mounts, knackered front callipers, rotten...

Hello All, Yet another weekend of lying on my back in the cold, close but no cigar. New brake pipes, hoses, callipers, rear cylinders, 3 litres of fluid later and i still have an extremely spongy pedal, if worth calling a pedal at all?. There apprears to be air coming out in the bleed tube...

more info needed please, does it do this when hot or cold?, could be carb icing if its cold, or it could be poorly adjusted tickover, points, ignition system, air leak in inlet manifold or blocked carb idle circuit if its doing it when hot :roll:

m14 x 1.5 they are then, i will see if i can get a die nut in that size then, many thanks 8)

The first couple of threads on one of my pal's bus front hub studs are knackered. I reckon if i could find a suitable die nut i stand a good chance of saving the stud. The question is, is it a standard metric thread?, if it is i'm sure it would be M12? Ideas please, James

You can avoid disconnecting the brake pipe, just be very carefull not to damage or bend the pipe excessively when you split the bearing housing from the spring plate and suspension arm. Support the hub on a few bricks when dissassembled, and yes you need to disconnect the shock from the bearing...

Will be at the bucks head pub at long lane Crudgington at 8ish on tues the 13th of Jan with a good bunch of peeps, the lowering project is obviously ongoing at weekends, but you are welcome to pop in and see whats involved, maybe even witnessing trying to fabricate some bump stop mounts unless...

I've used avis adjusters on the front of mine with spax KSX shocks to stiffen up the ride up front too, bus drives and handles nice, one spline on the rear, but i'm hoping to upgrade the rear shocks at some point too. Were fitting red nine kit on my mates bus with a red 9 front beam, which i...

Hello all, I've been helping a friend to lower his bus and unfortunately the bump stop/ torsion housing mounting points which attach to the rear chassis are totally rotten :cry: . In order to ensure the vehicle is safe these brackets need to be replaced :!: . The question is :- a)Can i buy...

Coolios 8)

A standard single vac advance dizzy should be fine, reliable too :wink:

My bus (68) has never had any soundproofing above the engine either, there must be something we could use :roll: Long motorway journeys get a bit tiring listening to the engine working hard :(

A new paint job 8) , sick of having the tattiest bay in the village :cry:

id stick with the original if i was you, fault finding will be easier with the original layout and will tally up with the wiring diagrams/repair manuals :wink: . If you have to sell the bus (god forbid) a potential buyer might think the wiring might be bodged or you could be hiding something...

Remember, as an old ancient proverb says CROME DONT GET YOU HOME :lol:

Cut and welded mine, a skim of filler, then happy days 8)

Looks far to good to warrant an entire front clip removal :wink:

If the access is good, then find someone who has a tig welder i'm sure it could be welded in situ, might have to drain the oil tho :wink: