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I think if you run valve gap at 10mm or even 6mm it will be noisy, that is if it even runs!!

If the joint has lasted forty years that's a lot more than modern tech! Re solder and it's good for another fifty!

That should not happen as they are designed to fail open.

The water cooled system has no comparison to how air cooled system functions. Air cooled is direct cooling by a fan with oil cooling assistance and the flaps do not have a control function. As I described earlier the fan is the only device for cooling with increased engine speed giving...

Prepare yourself for the worst and where you see rust there will always be more behind it. Rear quarters lower sides A pillars etc. The bits you will never see again are the most important. Do a little bit at a time and finish it. Buy the best panels you can as some are way off the mark fitting...

Delete flaps and stat. They are only useful in an artic zone. The engine always warms up quickly enough in our moderate zone. I have a 912 Porsche engine in a beetle and a T2 van 1600 and both are flapless and never have a problem. In the fully warmed up condition they are open anyway. When...

It's from a Bentley manual re 1979 that a nice man sold me along with two dash clusters for 20 quid. He was passing by and saw the T2 in the garage in bits!

It's from a Bentley manual re 1979

Here is a comprehensive description which should clarify what oil to use, what years are suitable and what climate zone. Re table (a) "Engine oil Viscosity Specs" the UK is still the moderate zone no matter what the climate hysterical doomsters say. Also ignore the Artic zone which is...

I read somewhere that someone wired their carb inlet because of this issue. I was never aware that it was a problem and it took me a couple of hours. A small fix to save your pride and joy!

That is why I did this!

http://www.vw-resource.com/fuel_pump.html#test Here is an excellent site based on experience of the two guys who worked on VW's for years. (Rob and Dave’s Aircooled Volkswagen Web Pages) There is everything you need to know on here.

there is a non return mechanism/ valve inside so priming is not required.

That's nonsense because the Beetle fuel tank outlet is lower than the pump. Also works fine on a jacked rear and lowered front so pump will be higher! I have tested pumps with a can lower than pump by manually operating the push rod lever.

Bin it and install an electric one. Use a Facet made in USA. Steer clear of China junk. I have always used electric. You get instant fuel at the carb without depending on the engine cranking to pump fuel.

the durite actually specifies the terminal for each battery. Check that.

Check coil polarity is correctly oriented.

This is the location which is near the back seat where the floor curves down. Looks a bit small. Mine is about the size of the orange cover and allows you to look inside the tank too. PS I have a new fuel sender in its box on marketplace https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1895141057519835...

Take the belt off and run. Spin the generator pulley by hand and check the generator clamp.

All the circuits are on here. This is the T2 page Click on the diag you want. At the top of the page there all the types. Check that the "tan" wire is not actually white! Black is usually switched live. that red probably is batt pos to charging system? Check those in line crimps by pulling...