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Our superb ‘69 Early Bay camper van is available for sale. Imported from Washington in 2009, and building on a very sound and solid base, it has been detailed to an incredible standard since arriving. It’s LHD and finished in VW Ivory over Beryl Green, has a fully wax-oiled chassis and...

This is still up for graps - do you still want first refusal skint_golfer?

Hi - sure you can! Do you want to PM me with your email and details and we can sort if you want me to post the carb or whatever - Roy

OK, watch this space!

OK, I’ll give them a bell tomorrow. There’s no real bad delam at the ends and edges - PM me your email and I’ll send a couple of close-up pics - I’ll try to do it tomorrow eve.

I’m in Peterborough, Chris. Don’t know anyone going to Dubfest, sorry - DPD couriers might be a cheapish option, I’m happy to wrap it if they’re not to expensive? Roy

This exhaust has only done about 2,000 miles from new - now fitted a Vintage Speed as I needed to fit a towbar - £20 It’s not possible to post the exhaust so collection from Peterborough Also have the original Solex 30PICT-2 Carb from my ’69 Westy. It’s never been used since the van arrived...

reasonable condition - a couple of small scratches - £20 I guess because of the size it’ll have to be collection only - I’m in Peterborough

I've got a push button mounted next to the relay in the engine bay. It's only used if the system needs priming and the carbs/fuel lines are empty.

Hi Gruntilla Kind of solved the problem, not completely, but it’s loads better - I’m still not sure if it was/is an excessive fuel pressure problem, caused by the standard mechanical pump system, or a heat issue, that is, heat radiating up the short inlet manifolds once the engine has stopped...

Ah, excellent, thanks Jon - and for the good tip Hogroy

I’m fitting a HUCO low pressure fuel pump to my ’69 Westy. For safety I’m going to fit a relay (Halford’s item 184161 HEF 557 12V 30A 5 pin) in the system. I’ve found this wiring diagram in the archives here. What I need help with please, is: 1. I’m running a dynamo not an alternator - is...

Hi Jon, the alternator version pump has always been on the camper so didn’t need to change the push rod. Yes I think I’m getting there - I’m going to speak with Euro Carb but think a Huco low pressure electric pump is the way to go - thanks again

Over the weekend I removed the fuel pump to check, and if necessary, set the push rod operating length. At top stroke it was over 6mm above the plastic guide top face (I’ve got the shorter angled alternator model) - so, I added gaskets to reduce it to 4.5mm as recommended by most...

There’s a thought, Lard, I’ll give it a try tomorrow - thanks

The ‘farting’ noise, Jon, I think is pressure escaping (in the area of the regulator) and happens along with the bubbling and after the engine has been off a few minutes - although not every time - but the bubbling is every time. I really think I need to go down the electric pump route and bin...

Last week I temporarily fitted a pressure gauge between the Fuel King regulator and the carbs and adjusted the pressure to 2 psi (with the engine running) as recommended by Euro Carb. It was at just over 3 psi. Once I stopped the engine, and before I removed the gauge, the pressure slowly...

Thanks for that, it’s going to have to be my next checks - watch this space!

So, I re-positioned the Fuel King Pressure Regulator to the roof of the engine bay and re-routed the fuel lines away from the direct heat of the engine, and guess what, I’ve still got bubbling in the carbs after I turn the engine off. I’m sure it’s not the fuel boiling as I can hold the carbs...

Thanks for the instructions, Jon - printed and studied! I think my only installation error is location - it obviously needs re-siting to the top of the engine bay (and re-position that fuel pipe / filter line going to the pump up over the fresh air pipe! Here’s my installation and thanks again...