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Nice work 👍 I have the same style arches, luckily I only had to repair just up to the flare with a late arch, so it blended quite well. Would be nice if this style of arch was available to buy, being a small run needed I can't see anyone investing time and money in tooling though.

I'll take the bracket and plate if still available please. Pm me payment details if ok. Thanks, Chris.

Yes that pin does get driven out with a pin punch, cant remember if the roller needs removing or not. There's a small e- clip which needs removing first, this sits on top of one of the latches, between it and the body of the mechanism.

You will probably find the 2 top quality with £20 difference are from the same supplier. I used an autocraft battery tray, direct from them, very good quality but I still needed to do a small adjustment on it. Wouldn't hesitate in using another though. Keep an eye on autocafts Facebook page...

what I do is lots of small tacks along the length, grind back but not all the way yet, then add more tacks building onto the previous into the gap between the panels. Repeat until its fully welded, 9 times out of 10 this won't leave any pin holes.

As above, Schofields, I have also used Autocraft which are good, I know Autocraft produce panels etc, don't know if this is what Schofields sell?

Try taking off the tin underneath and heating the thermostat with I hairdryer or heat gun, you should see what the stat is doing then, could need a bit of adjustment.

I'll have the 70 on please, if you pm me paypal details i'll get payment sorted asap. Thanks, Chris.

What you have mentioned about fitting dropped spindles and taking it back up on the adjusters is something I would like to do on mine, interested to hear peoples thoughts on that.

I would always run a filter, I repositioned mine above the gearbox and will just change it every year as they cost peanuts. The problem comes for those who can't maintain their own vehicles, taking someone else's word that it has been changed. For me above the gearbox is better as its 2 less...

From what I read when I rebuilt mine last year, with the drive gear installed, the crank shouldn't be turned with no distributor fitted. Think it's something to do with the drive gear being able to rise in its bore and possibly damage the brass gear on the crank. I fitted mine with the case...

Nice, no messing about there!

I bought my curtains from them last year, really good quality, nice and thick, had the blackout material added aswell.

Great progress, i'm doing the same on mine at the moment, door side aswell, straight in at the deep end. At least any further repairs shouldn't be as bad as doing a sliding door sill assembly, that's what i keep telling myself anyway :lol:

Looking good, nice transformation, i remember looking at this when it was for sale, around August/ September 2015 :D

I think they are for the carpet/ rubber matting to clip on to?

I fitted one to mine, i found it tightened up the rest of the tinware as it clamps 2 other pieces together, the main rear tin and i think it was the bottom pulley tin?

Just a single run from front to back to feed brake lights, piggy back from left to right. The original wiring, black/ yellow and black/ red will feed the indicators. The original feed controlled brake light and turn signal, by disconnecting the brake feed to this at the front, it will now...

I've just done this on my 71 but i used UK spec rear lights, same principle though. Look at these wiring diagrams https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/1968-69Bus_TurnBrake.jpg https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/baybus_6869a_headlights.jpg keep pin 58 on the rear as a...

Being fairly new to Vw's with a lot to learn, would the flap on a 71 be openable with no lock and the cap locked as what is being talked about here? My 71 has a lock on the petrol flap itself which looks like a lock from an office cupboard, the cap is not locked, I take it this has been added?