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I'd be interested if this is still up for grabs! When would be a convenient time to pick it up? Cheers, Snakey.

So, when you buy a front panel from the likes of schofield, which has the EB lower part grafted in, joggled and spot welded, should that then ideally be fully welded as well as the spot welds. :?:

Don't know if these will help... Cab step Think it spot welds onto the chassis rail? ....obviously not welded in yet! Spot welded all the way along at the front of the cab floor. And for the purists, spot weld spacing for the cab floor front. Think it would be difficult to get in...

I know some of you guys have one of these! Found these after a clear out, I think they are for the sides of a confort? Like this We used to have an exportmatic and they came in the bag of an original awning we found, they wouldn't fit ours as the sides didn't open like the confort. If...

I bought the Clarke one too. Nothing to report yet on it's limitations. It even happily welded triple skin. (Inner windscreen panel to A post) and set on 1.5mm. I have heard the pcb can burn out on these though. But no probs with mine so far. You will need some decent power to it....you can't...

That's perfect... can even see where the loom pops thru as well! Much appreciated.

Has anyone got a good photo of a RHD bus minus the front panel? Just want to make sure the I get all the holes in the right place ie where the drain tube from the airbox goes etc before the front panel goes back on......eventually. Thanks in advance Snakey.

I use this one for work (oil heating supply lines) http://www.dereksairconditioning.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=64" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Took a while to find it as it seems to be a bit obselete now. Goes down to 4mm OD so should do brake...

Yes I do see what you mean. The sill b'post etc went on about 4 years ago so my memory is a little fuzzy. The bus was/is so bad I had little or no reference to go by when all this went on, so to ensure correct panel fit I got myself a NOS sliding door which then gave a proper profile at the base...

I'll take the opening quarter please sir! Can you pm me your address and I'll fire off a cheque 8)

As Mr. 67 Bay says.... Here's a piccy

Yep... the arch holds the captive nuts for the corner bumper mounts. Are you fitting a repro arch or a good cut from a donor bus? Snakey

The spooky guide is always a good one to follow for reference etc.... http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/sills/ns/ns.html These pics might help too.. If you are replacing the lower 'b' post section the quality from schofields is good (it was 4 years ago) just bear in mind to...

Found this "how to" a while back.... http://www.airsouls.com/how-tos/rear_discs.htm Just wondering if you could utilise 5x205 drums (plenty of meat on them) machine them down as per what this guys done to fit into 944 discs?

I would'nt go down the flat plate route due to strength considerations. My van pre complete strip down had a flat plate floor and you could feel the van twist when dropping off kerbs etc. I've been after a complete floor for mine for ages, Status VW were supposed to be tooling up for good...

May be a dumb question..but how do you know if you have a genuine Danbury? My bus was built in Feb '68 and it came with a Danbury interior. But the badge is on the panel above the engine lid! I'm guessing it rolled out as a microbus and somebody must have retrofitted the interior at a much...

Might be worth checking if the splitty floor has the same corrugation. I've heard they stamp them out of much thicker steel.

Wiper arms...(from Clyde) Shot of the chassis rails. Doesn't seem to make sense I know, but the gap you can see (6mm approx) between the chassis rail and inner front panel bracket is the difference for 67', 68'. That inner front panel is early bay NOS or not 67', 68' early.

Will try and post pics of most of the items as my bits are still in the loft!!!! Didn't know the speedo was different? How so?

You could put a tiny reed switch onto the opening 1/4 light behind sliding door, wired to a shotbolt on the the sliding door track. So when the window is open the reed switch breaks sending power to the shotbolt preventing the door from opening. :wink: