Deluxe clock repair

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creationblue

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Just spent the best part of the evening getting my Delux clock to work :roll: Ive had this for ages a '70 model, that didnt work but paid next to nothing for it.

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These early clocks are pretty straight forward to work on as the workings are housed in the plastic cover removable with 3 x 5mm nuts. The mechanism is basic clockwork using a spring and a flywheel with the 12V supply literally recoiling the spring when the contacts close (see contacts top let of the below pic). Basically due to build-up of grime the contacts dont quite make when the spring is at its weakest just before the contacts make to re-coil, so by spraying liberally with electrical contact cleaner will usually free everything up and do the job.

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If this doesnt sort your clock then another common fault is dry solder joins on the relay connections, finally there is a solder 'fuse' this melts if the clock has a short and breaks the supply. Special low melt temp solder is required for this, if you use standard solder you run the risk of frying your clock should the same fault occure.

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Just
 
Hiya blue,

Yes!

When I was presented with the cost of fixing my clock (spendy!) I decided to learn how to do this myself. I went out and bought a bunch of Type 3 clocks (cheap) and learned on those.

A couple of words........... cleaning the clock is very important. Dirt is the big enemy here. Most folks who are new at the clockworks business will over lubricate. Over lubricating leads to the collection of dirt in moving parts - not a good thing. The bearings take just a minute amount of very light oil.

Most of the clocks I have run into that were not functioning at all had burned out their fusible link. As you mentioned that's an easy fix.
 
creationblue said:

Hey CreationBlue

Need some help here. I have the same problem. I tried to open mine but after loosening the two nuts, didn't know what the little item, bottom right in your pic was. What is this, and how do you remove it?
 
Eugene said:
creationblue said:

Hey CreationBlue

Need some help here. I have the same problem. I tried to open mine but after loosening the two nuts, didn't know what the little item, bottom right in your pic was. What is this, and how do you remove it?

Eugene, that had me stumped for ages too :!: Its covering the 3rd nut (crafty!!), i broke it off with plyers.

Just
 
Paulwillie1000 said:
My Clock works but loses about half an hour a day, any ideas,
I guess at least its correct twice a day!

Does you clock have a +/- adjustment screw?
If not, it could be that the mech is dirty and running smoothly - a cleanup could make it more accurate.

;)
 
Paulwillie1000 said:
My Clock works but loses about half an hour a day, any ideas,
I guess at least its correct twice a day!

Like J&M Says the early clocks that have the white plastic cover over the mechanism has an adjustment screw, though the later version does not, presumably because it keeps better time, so if you have a later clock then its possible it needs a clean, though i would consider how accurate you need it to be as the later clock needs the case splitting and as such is prone to damage.......

Just
 
Mike F said:
Cheers creationblue, I've been talking with slammedkustom about my clock which doesn't work. Am looking forward to trying out your method soon.

Cool, hope i have given a few of you the confidence to open them up and get them working rather than paying out for a replacement.

Just
 
creationblue said:
If this doesnt sort your clock then another common fault is dry solder joins on the relay connections, finally there is a solder 'fuse' this melts if the clock has a short and breaks the supply. Special low melt temp solder is required for this, if you use standard solder you run the risk of frying your clock should the same fault occure.

Hey Just...where is this solder fuse located?

Can you point it out on the pic?
 
if you can post a step by step in the tech forum ill pin it, as many pics as possible. :D
 
I prefer to fit an inline fuse as it saves opening it up again, that said in reality it only blows due to a fault so should be opened and checked out....however these fuses were too easily blown and likely hood its down to ingress of dirt etc creating a mechanical resistance causing the clock to draw a little extra to re-kick the mech...
 
Eugene said:
creationblue said:
If this doesnt sort your clock then another common fault is dry solder joins on the relay connections, finally there is a solder 'fuse' this melts if the clock has a short and breaks the supply. Special low melt temp solder is required for this, if you use standard solder you run the risk of frying your clock should the same fault occure.

Hey Just...where is this solder fuse located?

Can you point it out on the pic?

Hi all the 'fuse' is infact just low melt temp solder that dosnt seem to be available these days, so, the only alternative is to use regular solder to 'make' the contact that eletrically winds the spring mechanism.

Here is the area that will need soldering

Picture177.jpg


Carefully re-solder this joint, but, as Araon rightly says your best bet is to fit an ultra-rapid fuse outside the clock body to protect it should the unit develope a short.

Picture1731.jpg


As long as ur mechanism works when manually wound (turn the wheel with the contact pad half a turn see picture arrowed above) then the clock should be repairable. If when you connect the 12v supply the clock doesnt self-wind then make sure the winding wheel rotates sufficiently to make a contact as was the problem with mine. If this is the case, spray with electrical contact cleaner, not WD40 as this is too thick and will cause problems with the tiny gears. This should as in my case be problem solved.

Good luck

Just
 

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