engine out
- Thread starter robins
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Bookwus
Well-known member
Hiya Rich,
This is NOT the answer you're looking for, b ut I thought I'd throw it in anyway.
Once you have removed a 1600 engine from a Bus you'll find that it is a remarkably easy thing to do. I'd recommend doing a good job of cleaning everything up and that will make any subsequent pulls that much easier. Honest, this is not difficult.
However, there is a bit of a trick in removing and then reinstalling the engine. You want to get a good stable support under the transaxle to keep it lined up with where the gland nut and crank of the engine were. Most manuals suggest supporting the transaxle with chain or wire rope. While that will work I have found that, even using that method, the transaxle "sinks" somewhat. Now I always support the transaxle with a jackstand or other solid support to keep it in the exact same place. That makes lining up the engine with both the transaxle and the rear engine mounts much easier.
This is NOT the answer you're looking for, b ut I thought I'd throw it in anyway.
Once you have removed a 1600 engine from a Bus you'll find that it is a remarkably easy thing to do. I'd recommend doing a good job of cleaning everything up and that will make any subsequent pulls that much easier. Honest, this is not difficult.
However, there is a bit of a trick in removing and then reinstalling the engine. You want to get a good stable support under the transaxle to keep it lined up with where the gland nut and crank of the engine were. Most manuals suggest supporting the transaxle with chain or wire rope. While that will work I have found that, even using that method, the transaxle "sinks" somewhat. Now I always support the transaxle with a jackstand or other solid support to keep it in the exact same place. That makes lining up the engine with both the transaxle and the rear engine mounts much easier.
ProfessorWheeto
Well-known member
Ermm right.
Pulling and reinstalling a type 1 engine in an pre 72 is a piece of piss. Two trolley jacks one under the engine, one under the gearbox make lining things up easier.
You will also want a 30mm spanner. Put the vehicle in gear and rotate the crankshaft pulley nut with the 30mm spanner to help the engine mesh onto the spines onto the gearbox input shaft.
Whilst your engine is out it might be worth replacing your flywheel oil seal, it would be worth removing your clutch (remembering to mark the clutch and flywheel so you can put them back in the same place) and inspecting the pressure plate for wear.
It's also a good idea to clean out the gearbox bell housing, put a tab of grease on the input shaft and to lube up the thrust bearing mechanism.
It would also be a good idea to remove the fuel tank bulk head (remember there are screws underneath as well as on the side) and to check the condition of the breather pipes and filler neck. It would be good idea to replace all the fuel lines as well.
You may also want to replace your starter motor bush, its only a quid anyway.
It's also easier to set your tappets up with the engine out so its probably worth checking the gaps and fitting new rocker cover gaskets.
Would be worth checking the connections on the starter motor are clean and wires in good condition whilst your under there.
Remember to clean the threads on all the engine mounting bolts so they are easier to reinstall.
It's also a good idea to make sure everything is clean, make sure there isn't any crap that been sucked into the fan.
When you pull the engine remember to label the wires to the coil and distributor and make sure everything is disconnected (fuel and accerator cable are obvious, but have forgotten to disconnect heater cables a couple of times
) And be careful not to lose the little doodahs that pinch the ends of the accerator and heater cables as they usually fall out when they aren't holding a cable tight.
Pulling and reinstalling a type 1 engine in an pre 72 is a piece of piss. Two trolley jacks one under the engine, one under the gearbox make lining things up easier.
You will also want a 30mm spanner. Put the vehicle in gear and rotate the crankshaft pulley nut with the 30mm spanner to help the engine mesh onto the spines onto the gearbox input shaft.
Whilst your engine is out it might be worth replacing your flywheel oil seal, it would be worth removing your clutch (remembering to mark the clutch and flywheel so you can put them back in the same place) and inspecting the pressure plate for wear.
It's also a good idea to clean out the gearbox bell housing, put a tab of grease on the input shaft and to lube up the thrust bearing mechanism.
It would also be a good idea to remove the fuel tank bulk head (remember there are screws underneath as well as on the side) and to check the condition of the breather pipes and filler neck. It would be good idea to replace all the fuel lines as well.
You may also want to replace your starter motor bush, its only a quid anyway.
It's also easier to set your tappets up with the engine out so its probably worth checking the gaps and fitting new rocker cover gaskets.
Would be worth checking the connections on the starter motor are clean and wires in good condition whilst your under there.
Remember to clean the threads on all the engine mounting bolts so they are easier to reinstall.
It's also a good idea to make sure everything is clean, make sure there isn't any crap that been sucked into the fan.
When you pull the engine remember to label the wires to the coil and distributor and make sure everything is disconnected (fuel and accerator cable are obvious, but have forgotten to disconnect heater cables a couple of times
) And be careful not to lose the little doodahs that pinch the ends of the accerator and heater cables as they usually fall out when they aren't holding a cable tight.ProfessorWheeto
Well-known member
This thread probably needs moving to tech section as well?
noddy
Well-known member
I found taking photographs of the electrics before I took my engine out a god send when it came to putting it back in.
If your up for doing preventative maintenance I would clean and re grease you CV joints, half shafts are much easier to get off while the engine is out.
Gunk and jet wash engine bay, waxoyl behind fire wall.
Check the input shaft seal to the gearbox for any major leaks, you will know if it gear oil it has a really strong distinctive smell, not anything like engine oil, mine always has minor traces of oil in the bell housing but only a couple of thimble fulls.
A gear box oil change is probably worth doing for what it costs, Im sure loads of vans are running around with 20 year old oil in the box. Get gear box warmed up with a good drive before you try to drain, the oil is like syrup when cold.
As I think some one has already said, gunk and jet wash your engine before you expose any of the internals, take the cooling tin off give it a thorough clean, last thing you want is **** off the road getting inside.
The inside of the fan housing usually gets crudded up with a mix of oil and dirt, its worth checking that your oil cooler is clean and clear.
Check you flexy hose to your rear brake, new ones are worth doing all round if your not sure of how old they are, the rear ones are a pig to get to with the engine in.
Check all the case bolt torques.
Check the clutch release bearing it it feels at all gritty when you turn it put a new one in and use heavy duty empi clips the stock ones are crap and come off inside the bell housing, I should have changed my bearing last time I had the engine out 4 months ago, now I need to drop the engine again to do what is a 5 minute job.
If your up for doing preventative maintenance I would clean and re grease you CV joints, half shafts are much easier to get off while the engine is out.
Gunk and jet wash engine bay, waxoyl behind fire wall.
Check the input shaft seal to the gearbox for any major leaks, you will know if it gear oil it has a really strong distinctive smell, not anything like engine oil, mine always has minor traces of oil in the bell housing but only a couple of thimble fulls.
A gear box oil change is probably worth doing for what it costs, Im sure loads of vans are running around with 20 year old oil in the box. Get gear box warmed up with a good drive before you try to drain, the oil is like syrup when cold.
As I think some one has already said, gunk and jet wash your engine before you expose any of the internals, take the cooling tin off give it a thorough clean, last thing you want is **** off the road getting inside.
The inside of the fan housing usually gets crudded up with a mix of oil and dirt, its worth checking that your oil cooler is clean and clear.
Check you flexy hose to your rear brake, new ones are worth doing all round if your not sure of how old they are, the rear ones are a pig to get to with the engine in.
Check all the case bolt torques.
Check the clutch release bearing it it feels at all gritty when you turn it put a new one in and use heavy duty empi clips the stock ones are crap and come off inside the bell housing, I should have changed my bearing last time I had the engine out 4 months ago, now I need to drop the engine again to do what is a 5 minute job.
As mentioned above, its a good idea to give it a good jet wash, to clean the gunk off every thing, i use a product called TFR or traffic film Remover, its an annimal when it comes to cleaning your engine bay. available at most good motorfactors.
Ive just pulled my engine for a strip, clean and rebuild with twin carbs, while Im there Ive dropped the gearbox, drive shafts and fuel tank to give it all a good clean and sort out.
Well leave this thread here for now, its not particularly 'technical' and gives an insight into what folks are up to.
Well leave this thread here for now, its not particularly 'technical' and gives an insight into what folks are up to.
Bookwus
Well-known member
Hiya robins,
Cleaning the engine compartment is a very good idea. I used laquer thinner on my engine compartment. I followed that up with a light sanding and then three coats of rattlecan enamel matched to my original color.
Before............................
And after......................................
Cleaning the engine compartment is a very good idea. I used laquer thinner on my engine compartment. I followed that up with a light sanding and then three coats of rattlecan enamel matched to my original color.
Before............................
And after......................................
