Engine start after rebuild

[thejinx]

Ok. Rebuilt the engine. The carb was cleaned on a sonic cleaner. Engine refitted and carb set up according to the Haynes manual. Won't start. If I pore petrol straight into the carb it fires but once that fuel is used it stalls and won't restart. Any advice please. It's had a new fuel filter fresh fuel new fuel pump new everything

 

[Trikky2]

Disconnect the coil. Undo the fuel pipe from the carb and put it in a jar. Get an assistant to turn the engine over briefly (3 or 4 secs should be enough). Is the pump delivering a good squirt of fuel?

If no then is the pipe from the tank blocked? If it's clear then the either the pump is faulty or your pushrods is not long enough to work the pump.

If the pump is working then take the top off the carb to see if there is fuel in the float chamber. If not then your needle valve is blocked or stuck.

 

[thejinx]

Ok cheers will check it out on Tuesday. Cheers for the help

 

[thejinx]

If it's pushrods. Is the engine out? :? Not looking forward to that engine out heads off etc.

 

[subheatadey]

Tricky means the fuel pump pushrod

 

[thejinx]

Ok. will need to look at my manuals for that one. Easy to remove? expensive?

 

[Marriedblonde]

Fuel pump push rod is nice and easy to remove.

 

[dustrat]

Undo the two nuts that hold the fuel pump to engine case and lift the pump off. You should see a see a steel rod sticking through bakalite insert. If by any chance its not there they can be bought from usual places. There are two different lengths depending if you have alternator or dynamo.Hope this solves your problem.
Robert
:idea: :idea:

 

[Alex VW Heritage]

I would first check you haven't got the hoses on the wrong way round on the fuel pump, If the fuel isnt pumping out using Tricky's test above, swap the hoses over and try again!

Its a simple easy thing to check and a nice easy fix if it is

 

[Trikky2]

I would first check you haven't got the hoses on the wrong way round on the fuel pump, If the fuel isnt pumping out using Tricky's test above, swap the hoses over and try again!

Its a simple easy thing to check and a nice easy fix if it is

Good point Alex, I had forgotten the most obvious. Occams razor :lol:

 

[Alex VW Heritage]

I would first check you haven't got the hoses on the wrong way round on the fuel pump, If the fuel isnt pumping out using Tricky's test above, swap the hoses over and try again!

Its a simple easy thing to check and a nice easy fix if it is

Good point Alex, I had forgotten the most obvious. Occams razor :lol:

:mrgreen:

I only suggest it because I've done it myself, the repro pumps tend to be the wrong way round to OG stock ones so its an easy mistake to make!

 

[thejinx]

Cheers everyone. I will be up with the van tomorrow so will go through all suggestions

 

[thejinx]

Ok. Pump working ok, good fuel coming through when cranking. Before the battery died :roll: I was cranking it and my mate moved the dizzy. It fired and ticked over but died and wouldn't
go again.
Forgot to check needle valve

On the plus side the horn is now working. How hard is it to connect the wires under the bus by the steering box :evil:

 

[Alex VW Heritage]

my mate moved the dizzy. It fired and ticked over but died and wouldn't
go again.

That sounds like the timing is out?

 

[thejinx]

But how do I sort timing if I can't get it started. Do I keep moving the dizzy until it fires and work from there. I have a timing gun now.

 

[Trikky2]

Use a small bulb connected from ground to the dissy side of the coil. As the points open the light will come on. Set it so the light comes on as the timing marks line up as you turn the engine. (You can buy little 12v probe/test lights for this too). This will set your static timing.

On a stock engine it's all you need to do provided everything is working correctly.

You only need a timing gun of your not stock or if you need to check the dissy is advancing correctly as the engine revs rise or if you have electronic ignition which doesn't use points.

 

[thejinx]

Sound complicated I'm sure it's not. I will try it after work tomorrow. I am so close to MOT. Cheers everyone for your input. Always learning but feeling more confident

 

[smokehouse]

make sure you turn the motor over to 1# cyl. when you do the static light test if you are not sure where you are take the valve cover off the 1 and 2 side and watch the valves go up and down when number one has both valves up that is when number 1 is firing. now check your dizzy and see where it is on the rotor button. take the light and turn the dizzy until the light comes on in that location that should at least get it running. some guys when they build motor put the dizzy gear in 180 off sometimes or the motor came out of a type 3 they are 180 off. i have had that problem a couple times. checking with the valve cover off always helps me out.