Front disc + dropped spindle combo

[giraffeinbath]

Getting a bit blown away by the various options and what would be compatible with my bus.

It's a '68, I want to drop it by 2.5-3" and use discs that are compatible with the original 14" wide 5 wheels.

Anyone running a set up like this that they are happy with or any tips on what would be the best option. saving my pennies to get this sorted for the summer......

 

[Guest]

there few disc wide five options CSP being the most common, theres also BAD..

you could fit a split beam to give yourself more options?

 

[giraffeinbath]

you could fit a split beam to give yourself more options?

That's the kind of thing I mean when I say I'm getting a bit blown away by the options. Would that mean changing any of the other steering components?

 

[Guest]

i dont think a 68 is servo assisted brakes, but you would have to change the steering gear trackrods etc, and go linkpin which is much better than ball joint for going lower.

Your best bet is to call CE, i think Paul is the guy to ask about lowering? could be wrong. they could tell you everything youll need

 

[giraffeinbath]

No servo on the brakes unfortunately, wouldn't mind sorting that out in the fullness of time as well

Wouldn't a link pin front end essentially be a bit of a step backwards in terms of suspension/steering? I thought a lot of the split boys actually rip the front ends out of '69's to get the ball joint setup?

 

[Joval]

K&L is a far better system it just requires more maintenance than balljoint.

 

[giraffeinbath]

K&L is a far better system it just requires more maintenance than balljoint.

[que incredibly open ended question :roll: ]

why?

 

[Joval]

Better range of movement and adjustment, balljoints will snap if you go too low.

 

[giraffeinbath]

In terms of normal use ball joints are generally assumed to be better then K&L though right?
So a bus with ball joints on lowered spindles (2.5 to 3") should be better then a bus with K&L and an adjustable beam?

 

[Joval]

K&L require reaming to fit and need regular maintenance, balljoints are almost maintenance free and I think that is the only benefit of BJ.

Can't answer the second question - in theory I guess spindles would be better as the torsion leaves and trailing arms are unchanged...

I have very little experience with buses but it's the same principal as beetle suspension.

 

[giraffeinbath]

Thanks Joval

 

[Joval]

I know where you're coming from - I want to fit Fuchs and lower my bay but avoid increasing the track, the options are keeping me awake at night :lol:

I wish it was as simple as beetles - just bolt on 5x130 brakes. :wink:

 

[Guest]

If you want to go low on Ball Joint Spindles, think of it this way... the maximum drop you can manage safely is 2.5-3" on ball joints using an adjustable beam and no dropped spindles.

If you buy Ball Joint dropped spindles your dropping 2.5-3" inches with no effect on the joints as such, as the suspension geometry has stayed the same, but track has increased half an inch or so on each side.

If you add an adjustable beam into the mix you can drop it another 3" max before you stress the ball joints too much thus getting a 5"-6" drop from dropped spindles and adjusters on a ball joint setup.

i think this is correct? 8)

 

[giraffeinbath]

I think a 2.5" to 3" drop will do it so probably go the adjusters route I guess, gonna keep an eye here to see how bananacustard gets on at the slammin shop..........

 

[Joval]

I'll be keeping an eye on that too, interested to see how the ride changes on adjusters.