Jobs to do while your engine is out

[philstar]

I need to remove my engine to get my fuel tank out, while I do it I will fix the oil leak from the engine and replace the clutch, I was wondering if you guys knew of any really awkward jobs that are worth doing while the engine is out? I don't want to have to go through it all again in a few months if I find something small has broken that I could have maintained while the engine was out... can we get together a top 20 list?

 

[Tristan71]

Valve clearances and plugs is always a good one

 

[philstar]

Yes there are many things worth doing on the engine, but I was wondering if there were any other jobs that I should do on the bus itself that are at lot easier without the engine in place? Case in point, I am only taking out the engine so I can remove the fuel tank. My experience is solely with classic minis so I can't visualise my way around the back of my bus yet, I'm sure this list would be invaluable to other vw beginners

 

[K@rlos]

Fit new tinware if needed and check the oil cooler seals.

 

[philstar]

Al-right here we go the makings of a list!

1) general engine sevice - valve clearances, plugs and ignition system
2) tinwear inspection
3) oil cooler seals

 

[gvee]

Check your fuel lines!!

Opportunity to refresh the paintwork in the engine bay. At least give it a bit of a scrub if it needs it
Easier access to electrics so check your rear lighting connections. Make sure all the terminals are both clean and solid.
Check engine mount supports.
If you're running a twinport with cooling flaps; check the return spring on the back of the fanhousing! If in any doubt, get it replaced.
Check connections and wires on the starter motor; a reasonably common corrosion area from what I hear.
Uhh...

 

[philstar]

Now we're cookin! It seems I am missing a trick here (fuel tank, the reason I am doing it in the first place...) :

1) general engine sevice - valve clearances, plugs and ignition system
2) tinwear inspection
3) oil cooler seals
4) clean out fuel tank, check fuel lines, filters
5) refresh the paintwork in the engine bay
6) Easier access to electrics so check your rear lighting connections. Make sure all the terminals are both clean and solid.
7) Check engine mount supports.
8) Check connections and wires on the starter motor; a reasonably common corrosion area
9) If you're running a twinport with cooling flaps; check the return spring on the back of the fanhousing! If in any doubt, get it replaced.

 

[ProfessorWheeto]

You mentioned the clutch, if your just replacing the friction plate rather than the full kit its worth also changing the release bearing & clips.

 

[RednWhite]

If you could beg/borrow/steal a leak down test kit or find some way of pumping air through the spark plug hole you could check for valve leaks (doesn't always show that much on a normal compression test but sorting out stuff like that can make your engine a little perkier and can also make your exhaust run cooler depending on what valve is leaking). You could also retorque your heads even if you didn't take them off to lap the valves. You'll have to take off most of the tinware to do that though.

Doubt if most people would bother but I'm just throwing it out there