New 1776cc engine and no power

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Millhouse

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I've just fitted a new engine into my camper and have taken it out for the first time and I am not happy with the way it performs. I know I have to run it in but the engine feels dead, it seems to have no power.
I took it out for a drive and it hates all hills no matter how small. It even seems to struggle going along the flat. Its not what I expected from a 1776cc engine, My old 1600cc engine was way better.
Any idea what could be wrong with it?
The engine spec is :
1776cc barrels and pistons,
CB performance 044 heads,
engle 110 cam,
Bolt up rocker shafts (if that makes a difference)
Dellorto DRLA 40's
Pertronix ignition and coil,
CB performance electronic fuel pump,
Vintage speed exhaust
Its running an external oil filter (HP1)
6 rib gearbox

I have checked the following:
Valve clearances, timing, the carbs have been balanced and set up correctly, there is no air leaks.
I've renewed the HT leads, spark plugs, rotor arm, distributor cap, air filters.
the carbs have been stripped down and ultrasonically cleaned then rebuilt and jetted to suit the engine, probably done loads of other things to it as well but have forgot.

Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong with my engine?
Have I been ripped off and been sold a duff engine?
Is there any more checks I can do?

I have a horrible feeling my engine isn't a 1776cc

Any help is very much appreciated,

Thanks in advance
 

chad

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The first thing that I'd check is that it's getting enough petrol - for example could the fuel filter be partially blocked?
 

thejinx

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I had this issue and it was timing. The slightest incline and the speed just dropped like a stone
 

Trikky2

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As already said. Check the timing and by that I mean also check the timing mark is correct.

Once the timing is correct, if there's still no power then take off one plug lead at a time to see if there's one that makes no difference to the engine speed when removed. This will check all four cylinders are firing.

If that also checks out correct then it's time to do a compression test.
 

Moseley

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Once you've checked all the obvious things are correct, you'll have to resort to a rolling road and preferably an air cooled specialist. Could it be that you were just expecting more than what the engine is giving?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Millhouse

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Thanks for all the replies.

I've replaced the fuel filters, they are all brand new.

I didn't do the timing this was done by someone else. They set it up using a timing light, I don't know what it was set to. If I buy a timing light what should it be set to?

It has a flamethrower 009 distributor.

I've done a compression test, all four cylinders are 90. Is that good?

I've had loads of problems with this engine since I've had it. The last problem was it wouldn't idle or rev right, the reason for that fault was because it was only firing on one side. strangely the fix was to swap the spark plugs from one side of the engine to the other. I have since renewed all the spark plugs.

I know a few people that have owned air cooled campers in the past so I got them to drive it just to make sure it wasn't just me. Its not me as they all agree its rubbish, one said it was worse then his (his was a completely stock 1600)
 

Millhouse

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who? said:
Not wanting to drop anyone in the preverbial but where did you get it from?

I got the engine as a long block from steve strong. All the parts I have added have been new and the best quality I could get
 

Bobster

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Millhouse said:
I didn't do the timing this was done by someone else. They set it up using a timing light, I don't know what it was set to. If I buy a timing light what should it be set to?

It has a flamethrower 009 distributor.

Rev the engine till its at full advance and then set the timing to around 30 btdc
 

megaaircooledvw

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This engine should be delivering around 100 HP,if set right,do the heads say 044,under the rocker covers
 

Millhouse

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megaaircooledvw said:
This engine should be delivering around 100 HP,if set right,do the heads say 044,under the rocker covers

I cant remember, I know I have to use the smaller spark plugs so I assume its the correct head, I will have a look tomorrow just to make sure.

Bobster said:
Rev the engine till its at full advance and then set the timing to around 30 btdc

Thanks, I'll get a timing light ordered and I'll double check it at the weekend
 

StefansBus

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I'm not an engine expert but I am wondering if this set up is ideal for a bus. This sounds to me like a relatively high horsepower, relatively low toque engine which would work better in a light weight vehicle such as a beetle as opposed to a bus.

I would think that what you want in a bus is primarily torque. The 44 heads have pretty big valves which need high revs to work well.

Smaller valve sizes and smaller carbs as well as a softer cam would probably help with drivability and low end torque (pull).

I would go for a 1776 dual port, with a stock cam or similar and a single carb. Either a re-jetted 34 or a 34 converted to a 37 or 39 (a couple of guys in Germany sell those and they have had really good reviews). You will only get about 75 horsepower but lot's of torque and great drivability in the bus without having to rev the engine any more than stock.

Am I wrong?
 

Webbaldo

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I bought an SS engine that I never actually used and sold on. The person fitting it realised one head hadn't be torqued down. :lol:

As with all reconditioners I'm sure they all have their off days and are probably fine normally.
 

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Millhouse said:
who? said:
Not wanting to drop anyone in the preverbial but where did you get it from?

I got the engine as a long block from steve strong. All the parts I have added have been new and the best quality I could get


Doesn't matter how expensive the parts are if they aren't put together right!
 

megaaircooledvw

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Millhouse said:
who? said:
Not wanting to drop anyone in the preverbial but where did you get it from?

I got the engine as a long block from steve strong. All the parts I have added have been new and the best quality I could get


Doesn't matter how expensive the parts are if they aren't put together right!
Spot on.
 

dubselector

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I have a 1776 in my bay ( incidentally also built by Steve Strong ). I ran it at first with the 009 dizzy I had from my original 1600 and it had a massive flat spot. At suggestion from guys on here I swapped to a vacuum advance dizzy and this cured the problem. I still had to vary the timing slightly from standard to get the best result, as with any non-standard build it takes some tuning and tweaking to get the best results, Ideally on a rolling road, but I just tweaked one thing at a time, drove it, and either kept or changed it.
 

Tofufi

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Millhouse said:
I've done a compression test, all four cylinders are 90. Is that good?

90PSI per cylinder would be what I'd expect from a very worn engine. Were you doing the tests with the throttle wide open?

I'd be hoping for 140-150PSI per cylinder on a freshly built engine...
 

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