Not starting very well

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fallingoffalot

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After my recent non starting issues, having not started it for a few months. I went to start it yesterday having not started it for 2 weeks and it was just as bad, took about 3 or 4 bursts of 10-15 seconds of cranking to get it to start.
Up to now, it would start almost instantly, even after a few weeks. If I'd left it for a few months, then it would take a bit longer, but never this bad. Once running it's absolutely fine. Any suggestions?
 
Thanks chaps, fair enough, I wonder if something has happened to the carbs? My garage doesn't stink of petrol any more, which I guess could have been the carbs flooded, which are now not. Maybe it's a good thing?
 
Do you not first put your foot all the way done on the accelerator before easing it off and cranking. This does two things:
1) squirts a jet of fuel directly into the carb (overdoing this floods the engine, of course)
2) Latches the accelerator to fast idle until the engine warms at which point it releases.

Assuming you've got solex carbs, theres a diaphram behind a cover that controls (2), has this slipped out of adjustment or the rubber perished? To test, when engine is cold, press the accelerator all the way down and go have a look at the carb. It should have latched open on the stepped arm on the throttle body.
You can probably test (1) by pulling the accelerator arm and listening for the jet of fuel.
 
I've got twin Weber IDF 40s, standard diaphragm pump, about 5-6 years old (which I haven't touched) I've never had to give it any throttle before, it was instant even if left a week or so. I don't think my throttle actually latches like the standard one, that used to keep the revs up until un-latched. I'll start it at the weekend - so a week after I last ran it. Maybe give it a blip first.
 
If you're running carbs without chokes you need a couple of pumps to prime the carbs.
Also if you're running the stock mechanical fuel pump you'll need to let the pump fill the carb bowls before the engine will catch.
 
Actually the problem may have started after I put in a tank of E10 in. Having used a bit of it (1/5 maybe?), I heard about Esso Synergy (no E) and topped it up with that. I think I then left it for a few months. I've since used all that and now have just Esso in the system. So yes it could be that. Suppose it depends on whether the E10/Esso mix was bad? The other thing different is that the Esso is 99 RON.
 
Actually the problem may have started after I put in a tank of E10 in. Having used a bit of it (1/5 maybe?), I heard about Esso Synergy (no E) and topped it up with that. I think I then left it for a few months. I've since used all that and now have just Esso in the system. So yes it could be that. Suppose it depends on whether the E10/Esso mix was bad? The other thing different is that the Esso is 99 RON.
I've been using E5, plus this additive and it seems to be working very well. When I drained the tank I got probabbly 0.5L of white cloudy watery stuff out before it started looking like fuel. I then drained the rest of it and stuck it in our car, which seemed fine.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-...cphy=9045274&hvtargid=pla-1373568357753&psc=1
 
Actually the problem may have started after I put in a tank of E10 in. Having used a bit of it (1/5 maybe?), I heard about Esso Synergy (no E) and topped it up with that. I think I then left it for a few months. I've since used all that and now have just Esso in the system. So yes it could be that. Suppose it depends on whether the E10/Esso mix was bad? The other thing different is that the Esso is 99 RON.
I think it may be coincidence, when was the last time you checked fuel filters, fuel pipes, float levels, etc?
There's lots of misinformation and myths around ethanol in petrol. Plenty of people run E10 in classic vehicles with no problems, especially when you consider that it was first introduced in 2008.
It's only when you store them unused for a long time that you may get some issues. Extended storage without proper treatment or overuse of certain additives may help deterioration of some parts of the fuel system.
All modern fuels, whether they contain ethanol or not, have a short shelf life. Many manufacturers recommend that fuel is stored for no longer than 30-60 days unless a stabilizer is used.
 
I think it may be coincidence, when was the last time you checked fuel filters, fuel pipes, float levels, etc?
There's lots of misinformation and myths around ethanol in petrol. Plenty of people run E10 in classic vehicles with no problems, especially when you consider that it was first introduced in 2008.
It's only when you store them unused for a long time that you may get some issues. Extended storage without proper treatment or overuse of certain additives may help deterioration of some parts of the fuel system.
All modern fuels, whether they contain ethanol or not, have a short shelf life. Many manufacturers recommend that fuel is stored for no longer than 30-60 days unless a stabilizer is used.
Spot on sparky, too much scaremongering about E10 still going on.
 

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