Oil drain leaks, stoppable?

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Mags

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I'm fed up with oil leaks from the sump cover, what am I doing wrong?
A few years ago I replaced all the studs that the sump cover uses and the nuts, domed type. I have an aftermarket sump cover with a large drain plug in the middle, I pulled this all off last weekend to clean the gauze and replace the oil. Replaced the gaskets etc and only tightened gently by hand (or so I thought) so as not to damage the threads, new copper washers, paper gasket but no gasket sealant.
I noticed the sump cover didn't seem very flat across the bolt holes either due to poor quality or ham fisted tightening in the past (by me) so I tried to flatten it out. When for a run, all good. Look back under the bus a few days later and I have a nice oil leak as usual, in fact I think more than I had before I took it apart!
What am I doing wrong? lack of sealant? bolts too tight? (I'm not sure the low setting on my torque wrench is right for 5 ft/lbs, it feels too tight for such small nuts so I do them with a spanner) poor quality sump cover?

Mags
 
You’ve said it yourself, if neither surface is completely clean and flat, you’ll never get it to seal without using some nasty sealant - which you’ll never thank yourself for when you next come to remove it!

If you’ve warped the plate, the chances are that you won’t get it flat again, so buy a new one (can you get billet ones that are machined flat?) I have always had to use a little more torque than the book says to get the copper washers to seal, otherwise the odd stud still gets a bit of weeping dripping off the nut.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Answered your own question.... it’s not flat, Only the expensive sump plates like CB performance or Jaycee are 100% flat, plus a bit of sealant always helps. And don’t forget to use a torque wrench, that way you won’t warp the plate or worse pull the threads in the crankcase. A basic 1/4 drive won’t be a lot
 

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