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EarlyBay Forums
Technical
Raise lowered van, but no adjustment left
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<blockquote data-quote="Moseley" data-source="post: 631341" data-attributes="member: 20098"><p>As stock, the suspension arms should rest not parallel to each other, I.e. the closer you get to the ball joint end, the further apart the distance between the arms. Once the spindle is installed, this pulls the arms parallel and preloads the leaf springs such that when on a bumpy surface, there is never a point where both leaf springs are in their slack, floppy, neutral position - one of them will always be under some torsional force, which aids smoothness throughout the suspension stroke.</p><p></p><p>On a beam with adjusters, this equates to about 2 teeth difference between the top and bottom. You just need to make sure that if you’re counting teeth between each adjuster, that the adjusters are welded in the same relative position on the tubes.</p><p></p><p>In your case, this is going to have the effect of lowering your suspension further though…</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Moseley, post: 631341, member: 20098"] As stock, the suspension arms should rest not parallel to each other, I.e. the closer you get to the ball joint end, the further apart the distance between the arms. Once the spindle is installed, this pulls the arms parallel and preloads the leaf springs such that when on a bumpy surface, there is never a point where both leaf springs are in their slack, floppy, neutral position - one of them will always be under some torsional force, which aids smoothness throughout the suspension stroke. On a beam with adjusters, this equates to about 2 teeth difference between the top and bottom. You just need to make sure that if you’re counting teeth between each adjuster, that the adjusters are welded in the same relative position on the tubes. In your case, this is going to have the effect of lowering your suspension further though… [/QUOTE]
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EarlyBay Forums
Technical
Raise lowered van, but no adjustment left
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