Rear wheel bearings.

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gas1man

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I am starting to think possibly the reason my new drums don't fit without making a noise is because the bearings need changing.
So I have sourced the kit's at Cool Air however what I need to know is do I need to also buy the SPACER TUBES .
1971 January build date. The reason is that some don't require and some do .Are there also inner bearings.
Any help appreciated. I am looking in my manual but it is not very specific.

Thanks people.

J & P
:D :D :D
 

Bundy

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Ages since I did mine so can't really remember...but surely if it needs the spacer tubes they'll already be in there and can be reused?? If not there, then no need for them...?
Have fun with the hub nut ;)
Cheers
Al
 

sparkywig

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If you're changing the bearings you'll need both inner and outer, the spacer tubes can be re-used.

Inner bearing fits all years 1968 - 1979, 72/35/17 (od/id/width) part no. 211-501-287
Outer bearing from chassis no. 211 2000 001 - 08/1970, 62/35/19 (od/id/width) part no. 211-501-283B
 

dubselector

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When I fitted new drums and back plates to my 71 I found that the drums rubbed the back plates when the wheels were bolted up tight. I just removed drums and put a flat washer on each wheel stud then refitted drums on top - no more rubbing 😀
 

gas1man

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Brilliant idea , if it does the job , lookout for the bus and you get the first beer.
Don't worry chaps there will be enough for all. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Stay virus free and lookout for yourselves.

J & P
:D :D :D
 

ozziedog

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If that works with the washers, it might just out of interest, be worth measuring the thickness of the brake drum, not on the brake surface area but where the flat bit keeps the wheel off, where the drum contacts the wheel studs. I’d lay money that the original bearings are ok unless something very weirdy weird has happened. :shock:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,, I’d try that washers idea first, liking it :mrgreen:
 

Moseley

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dubselector said:
When I fitted new drums and back plates to my 71 I found that the drums rubbed the back plates when the wheels were bolted up tight. I just removed drums and put a flat washer on each wheel stud then refitted drums on top - no more rubbing 😀

Whilst I’m all for ingenuity, this seems a bit sketchy... washers are not a calibrated thickness, especially as the punching method tends to distort them, unlike a proper machined spacer. I’d be a bit concerned with the washers flattening further over time and thus loosening the drum bolts, or thickness variations leading to excessive drum / wheel runout.

Out of interest, does this affect the contact area of the mating faces when the drum is bolted up tight? I’m only familiar with the earlier drum types.
 

gas1man

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Moseley,
Hi , it more than likely will change and need a proper spacer in the future so as not to move around.
I am positive it will affect the contact area so will be extra vigilant when installing. Fully understand your concern and will
defo not put P in any danger , however high the insurance is. :lol: :lol: :lol: Report hopefully due after the bank holiday weekend.

J & P
:D :D :D
 

gas1man

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DUBSELECTA !!!!! Beer for you my friend.

So installed the new drums with washers on all of the studs behind the drum. Used 1.5mm washers all round.
Everything running smooth, all adjusted and out for a quick test drive. No scraping and grinding :) :) :)

Got back and re torqued the wheel nuts.
Will be going out again for a test drive and will check the torques again on return.
A lot happier now and just so you know the set of new cables that arrived do not have the screwdriver slot in at the end. :shock: :shock:
I have informed the supplier, but the length was right so made a plan as our first trip is imminent.
Ozzie , the bearings are fine as you suspected.

Thank you to everyone for all the advice, much appreciated.
Stay virus free and keep well.

J & P
:D :D :D
 

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