Removing old paint from cargo floor

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Coda

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I've been at it for what seems like hours, using my grinder and a polystrip disc, and I've barely scratched the surface (unintentional pun!). There's gotta be a better way, surely?


Follow up question. Once its back to bare metal (approx 2023 at this rate), zinc primer, etch primer, or (shudder) Hammerite :|? I will probably follow that with L275 light beige.

Also does anyone know what this large bolt is? It goes right through the rear cargo bay above the leisure battery and doesn't seem to attach anything... I'm wondering if a PO needed another earth point but this doesn't seem likely.
 
If you're covering the floor with ply and carpet/lino can I ask why you feel the need to bare metal the floor? If it's not a factory specification concours restoration I'd weld up any unwanted holes and then just prep it enough so it's sound enough for a top coat.
The bolt at the rear looks like a seat belt mounting bolt.
 
The reason I'm bare-metal'ing the floor - it seems that a previous owner before fitting new sheets of ply and lino decided that painting directly over rust was an acceptable thing to do. After poking around with a scraper I've found rust spreading under the original paint, and a couple places where it's more serious than just surface rust - including the B-pillar which now has a hole the size of a 20p coin where it just crumbled under the screwdriver. I wouldn't bother with it, but I've taken paint off which looked OK, only to find rust underneath. I can't trust it.

Yeah I think you're right - that may be a seat-belt bolt. There was a shoulder belt extension bar thing fitted nearer to the passenger so I guess this now redundant bolt was just left where it was. Thanks.
 
Unfortunately I don’t think there’s any quicker way to do it. I would be tempted leave bits that look unaffected by rust as it will be covered anyway as sparkywig says above. The paint does look pretty nasty in your pics so I can see where you’re coming from, but it easy to get drawn into thinking you’ve got to scrape every last bit off without really any need to. As long as you can tell it’s deffo not affected by rust.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Yeah thats the problem. I went into this thinking that I'd just remove the rust as those bits were quite obvious... turned out not so. There are several layers of paint and they are doing a good job of hiding rust underneath without any obvious bubbling.
I've got a system now, use the polystrip wheel to do the tops, and switch to the wire cup for the grooves. The problem with the cup is that it vibrates so bad, after 10 minutes I cant feel my forearms. This is probably _not_ normal...
 
sparkywig said:
Not good for you, Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome is taken very seriously on site.
Click to expand...
Yes I have heard of that. I'm going to see if a paint remover softens it up any.
 
If you’re getting loads of vibes then invest in some gloves. There are gloves designed to reduce the fatigue caused by vibration or use multiple layers of large gloves. If you’ve done it for more than an hour, get some gloves and take regular breaks from it. It’s not just safety glasses any more :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,, might feel like some one else if you try it :mrgreen: :lol: :mrgreen:
 
Sorry, that's poor advice oz, sometimes an hour is already too much. Exposure to HAVS has the potential to cause disabling injuries.
On the paperwork that comes with any power tool (that most people throw away) is a vibration magnitude figure, you use this figure to calculate the exposure limit value (see the link below) which is the maximum amount of vibration you can be exposed to in any single day without causing injury.

https://www.hse.gov.uk/vibration/hav/readyreckoner.htm
 
sparkywig said:
Sorry, that's poor advice oz, sometimes an hour is already too much. Exposure to HAVS has the potential to cause disabling injuries.
On the paperwork that comes with any power tool (that most people throw away) is a vibration magnitude figure, you use this figure to calculate the exposure limit value (see the link below) which is the maximum amount of vibration you can be exposed to in any single day without causing injury.

https://www.hse.gov.uk/vibration/hav/readyreckoner.htm
Click to expand...


Unintentional, but I think it was my poor wording more so than anything else, as I’d hate to insult your comprehension or reading abilities.
I’d posted
If ,,,,,,, you’ve done it for more than an hour
As in already done it for an hour or so, as Coda had posted he’d done this and lost feelings in his arms I believe.
Then get some gloves. I didn’t think that I’d implied to do it for an hour, but I also can see where you’re coming from. I believe that the feelings he’s getting or lack of feelings :roll: really needs all the PPE that can be mustered, and unfortunately we all think .. I’ll just do a bit more etc etc. And rightly so , there are now tables available so you can understand what is and what isn’t acceptable. Hopefully Coda won’t be doing this for the rest of his life :shock: Or we’ll have to all get up there and give him a hand, no pun intended.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,which leads to the old joke about the numb hand :mrgreen:
 
Cheers guys.

I'm taking a couple days off working on it while waiting for the paint stripper to get delivered. I think most of the vibration was the wire brush I had on the grinder, the other discs aren't half as bad.

Ozzie, why aren't you here already? You're only an hour away :mrgreen:
 
I'm not sure if you've already tried it, but I found that a wire wheel was the best - it didn't seem to cause any vibration issues when I did my bumpers. And you wouldn't have to change to a different bit for the troughs.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/norton-twisted-knotted-wire-wheel-115mm/539jf
 
Coda said:
Cheers guys.

I'm taking a couple days off working on it while waiting for the paint stripper to get delivered. I think most of the vibration was the wire brush I had on the grinder, the other discs aren't half as bad.

Ozzie, why aren't you here already? You're only an hour away :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Sorry bud I’m on fence panel replacement duties today and a new light switch in the downstairs bathroom because it’s decided not to click, probs because of the bloody great chrome knob on it the size of the SS Great Britain’s anchor weighing it down. Wig is even closer I think, I’ll get him to leave right away bud, he’ll be there before he left with the motor he’s got in that jalopy of his. :lol:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,is he there yet? :mrgreen:
 
Late reply, paint stripper as above, I would use epoxymastic 121 from rustbuster, really good to apply and loads of recommendations.... its very hardwearing..literally hammerproof


 

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