Simple Beam Narrowing?
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matt69bay
Well-known member
This seems pretty striaght forward 
Might have to give this a go as i don't personally like beam's that have been narrowed too much
Might have to give this a go as i don't personally like beam's that have been narrowed too much
matt69bay said:This seems pretty striaght forward
Might have to give this a go as i don't personally like beam's that have been narrowed too much
C'mon then, someone have a go....
matt69bay
Well-known member
I only got my tracking done on friday :roll:
Bryan67
Well-known member
So... has anyone else done this? I`m really interested.
me too!
still waiting..... :drumsfingers:
K@rlos
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I've decided to to this in a couple of weeks 8)
Westy Richardson said:
What's wrong with this weekend?
K@rlos
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This may sound stupid but what about the top mount for the shock? Does that need to be narrowed too? If the trailing arms are in futher won't the shock be on the piss? Thought of this will measuring up last night
Karl
Karl
Geeze
Well-known member
Westy Richardson said:
Might be able to shave a touch off the top bush one side and the bottom bush the other to be able to make the shock straight. Failing that, it will be a case of extending the thread further along on the trailing arm, like you have to do with other narrowed beams......
Geeze
Well-known member
ps.
Haven't done this either, but for those that are contemplating it, thought these might be useful:
oh, and for Moler, unless my Norwegian has gone very wonky (always possible ) that's actually a split beam they've gone and sectioned for our education :shock: !
Haven't done this either, but for those that are contemplating it, thought these might be useful:
oh, and for Moler, unless my Norwegian has gone very wonky (always possible
) that's actually a split beam they've gone and sectioned for our education :shock: !
froggy
Well-known member
Couldn;t you space out the bottom trailing arm?Westy Richardson said:
But in all honestly your talking less then 3/4 inch, have a look at most cars and while ideally a shock should run vertical not many actually do
Geeze said:oh, and for Moler, unless my Norwegian has gone very wonky (always possible
Looks like a beetle beam to me dude
Geeze
Well-known member
moler said:Geeze said:oh, and for Moler, unless my Norwegian has gone very wonky (always possible
Looks like a beetle beam to me dude
Ooo yeah, does doesn't it
in fairness was concentrating on trying to read the norwegian :lol: The thread started on bus beams, it was about losing the gain in track from the WW dropped spindles!
But mean time chatted with someone at Stonor who's done something similar to this.
Took the grease caps off and cut the tubes back, only difference being he pulled the beam bearings and ran urethane bushes instead. He did it about 8 or more years ago and said the only trouble he's had was that the urethane bushes were pretty much a service item for the mot until he had a set of Delrin ones made a couple of years ago and all seems to have been good since.
I'm going for it!
I've stripped the beam down, knocked off the cups and pulled the bearings out. The beam is stepped so prevents the bearings from being tapped inwards. This could be overcome by using the urethane bushings though I guess, or measuring the stepped section and ordering some specific bearings...
Having had a good look, my second issue is correct and exact cutting. It needs to go in 150mm, and to achieve that evenly and accurately will require it to be engineered ... I don't think it's a job for an air saw or grinder, or it might be if you've the confidence, but cutting back through the factory welds will be hard.
Given the importance of alignment, and the hassle involved to do it correctly, I've now decided that it's not worth the effort :roll:
What next? :?
Having had a good look, my second issue is correct and exact cutting. It needs to go in 150mm, and to achieve that evenly and accurately will require it to be engineered ... I don't think it's a job for an air saw or grinder, or it might be if you've the confidence, but cutting back through the factory welds will be hard.
Given the importance of alignment, and the hassle involved to do it correctly, I've now decided that it's not worth the effort :roll:
What next? :?
