Simple electrical question.

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AGPlant

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Rear light problem
Right indicator dim and slower than left side, lights on, press brake and right back light goes off. Just a case of cleaning contacts for lights? Cheers!
 
Ok will do. Ones near the rear lights? Wonder if there’s a fault with the stalk, 72 year only, as my 3 yr old pulled it and self cancelling no longer works! 😠
 
AGPlant said:
Ok will do. Ones near the rear lights? Wonder if there’s a fault with the stalk, 72 year only, as my 3 yr old pulled it and self cancelling no longer works! 😠

Yip, there will be an asset earth connection at the rear lamp unit. Rusty connection, damaged wire, loose joints..... Easy fixes
 
Cleaned the earths and hey presto we’ve got normal working lights! Thank you. Now to work out why fuse 9 keeps burning out! Sometimes when starting an sometimes when full beam flashed. Lol
 
Oh yes! Today fuse went as just joined busy roundabout, lights on and indicator on. Quick fuse change and off again. Everything dies when number 9, 16amp goes!
 
Does sound like its overloaded at some point. The straw that breaks the camels back may just be the indicators or and the brake lights. Try and find out what else this fuse is feeding as it is maybe a tad too much.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,, lecky tricks , work of the devil :mrgreen:
 
Thanks. I think when it was first ‘done up’ in 2005 it was wired up by a spider. Always been a couple of loose wires not attached but everything always worked, bar the generator and oil lights. What’s the easiest way to find what’s fed from the fuse?
 
See what works, then take the fuse out and see what don’t work no more, or try and track back from the fuse box but that’s a bit trickier. Might be really worthwhile getting your genny light working again as that’s a nice tell tale when stuff has gone Pete Tong. Don’t overthink it, it’s fairly primitive stuff.

Ozziedog,,,,,,, says the least electriclly minded bloke on the planet. :mrgreen:
 
So have a look at the back of the fuse holders and see if they are overloaded and connected there. If it looks reasonably original, look for where they’ve piggy backed onto it. Does anything stop working if you take out any other fuses at all ?

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,, Don’t ya just luvvv em :mrgreen:
 
Looks like it’s definitely something shorting or overloading when lights are on, then indicators or hazards. Checked all front light connections. Will check the back later. No dodgy split wires etc behind the fuse box. The journey continues! Just without lifts and indicator combo! Lol 😂
 
Really common to have the earth and positive wrong way round on the front side light holder

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 
Going through the process of elimination, see what fuse does what. Not sure yet what to expect when removing each fuse. Have found an unconnected greeny/blue and white stripe with male spade connector near fuse box.
 
FAO Ozzidog...
After removing fuses 1 by 1 these are the findings:
1 no change
2 no change
3 no change
4 no change
5 no change
6 no change
7 no change but engine doesn’t keep running, dies when no throttle
8 no hazards and radio
9 everything stops apart from rear interior strip light
10 no wipers
11 no ignition
12 no change

Any help grateful received! It seems putting a 25 amp fuse in 9 keeps going ok.
 
Hi,
Maybe check the actual bulbs?
On my US Bay, swapped the original ones once for some replacement ones & when using the hazards/indicators it caused the fuse & eventually the relay to pop.
Think problem was they were '"drawing" more current. Sounds like something similar on your fuse issue.
 
The simple answer the van has been wired up wrong, the ignition feed to the coil is going through a fuse which it shouldn't hence the engine stopping when the generator stops charging.
 
It’s frustrating as it’s all been fine up until the other week! Around the fuse box, where should the ignition feed usually go?

Will add a pic of the loose striped wire too. 🧐
 
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