Tandem Brake Booster Install on 68 lowlight

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_666_

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Hi all, in the coming days i will be installing a tandem brake booster into my 68 Lowlight Kombi
i have a few questions about the install, am i right in saying i need to make up the following pipes

1x pipe from the tandem brake master (front most port) to the rear of the tandem brake booster (the side with the black bit) (3/8"-24 male to male fittings)
1x pipe from the rear of the Master to the front of the booster (3/8"-24 male to male fittings)
1x pipe from booster to a T connector to split into the front brakes.. (are these 3/8"-24 male fittings too ?)
1x pipe from booster to splice into the rear brakes.. (i will need to find an appropriate spot and cut and put a fitting on unless i can make a pipe to where it originally terminated near the MC) (pressumably male 3/8"-24 male to 3/8"-24 female)
and obviously run the vacuum line with the one way valve in it

is there anything i have missed ?

20220115-142716.jpg
 

Journey

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Hi all, in the coming days i will be installing a tandem brake booster into my 68 Lowlight Kombi
Hey, did get the tandem brake booster installed? Would like to know how you did it.
 

_666_

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Hey, did get the tandem brake booster installed? Would like to know how you did it.
I havnt had the time to install it yet.. but I did have a look under the car and I’m not too sure where the best place is to mount it. I’d also like to see where others have mounted it
 

naskeet

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Hi all, in the coming days i will be installing a tandem brake booster into my 68 Lowlight Kombi
i have a few questions about the install, am i right in saying i need to make up the following pipes

1x pipe from the tandem brake master (front most port) to the rear of the tandem brake booster (the side with the black bit) (3/8"-24 male to male fittings)
1x pipe from the rear of the Master to the front of the booster (3/8"-24 male to male fittings)
1x pipe from booster to a T connector to split into the front brakes.. (are these 3/8"-24 male fittings too ?)
1x pipe from booster to splice into the rear brakes.. (i will need to find an appropriate spot and cut and put a fitting on unless i can make a pipe to where it originally terminated near the MC) (pressumably male 3/8"-24 male to 3/8"-24 female)
and obviously run the vacuum line with the one way valve in it

is there anything i have missed ?

20220115-142716.jpg

I might also be missing something, but the hydraulic circuit illustrated above, looks decidedly WEIRD!

Is there a particular reason, why the front & rear hydraulic circuits are NOT connected directly to the front & rear hydraulic portions of the dual-circuit master cylinder?

Is there a particular reason, why the brake-light switches are NOT screwed directly into the front & rear hydraulic portions of the dual-circuit master cylinder? If there is a problem with clearance between either one or both of the brake-light switches and the chassis, one could use an intermediate banjo-fitting. The one-way banjos used on rear-engined Skodas are quite good!

I have some ATE - Alfred Teves, M10 x 1•0 mm banjos on my 1973 VW Type 2, but for the VW Type 4 style engine's oil-pressure gauge-sender & switch, rather than the hydraulic braking system

354027.jpg


The one-way & two-way banjos, were salvaged from the brake master cylinder of a British specification BMW car, having a direct-acting vacuum servo.

The two-way & three-way banjos, were salvaged from a pair of indirect-acting, vacuum servo units, on another British specification BMW car, of mid-1970s vintage.
 

_666_

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I might also be missing something, but the hydraulic circuit illustrated above, looks decidedly WEIRD!

Is there a particular reason, why the front & rear hydraulic circuits are NOT connected directly to the front & rear hydraulic portions of the dual-circuit master cylinder?

Is there a particular reason, why the brake-light switches are NOT screwed directly into the front & rear hydraulic portions of the dual-circuit master cylinder? If there is a problem with clearance between either one or both of the brake-light switches and the chassis, one could use an intermediate banjo-fitting. The one-way banjos used on rear-engined Skodas are quite good!

I have some ATE - Alfred Teves, M10 x 1•0 mm banjos on my 1973 VW Type 2, but for the VW Type 4 style engine's oil-pressure gauge-sender & switch, rather than the hydraulic braking system

354027.jpg


The one-way & two-way banjos, were salvaged from the brake master cylinder of a British specification BMW car, having a direct-acting vacuum servo.

The two-way & three-way banjos, were salvaged from a pair of indirect-acting, vacuum servo units, on another British specification BMW car, of mid-1970s vintage.
I have no idea.. that’s just what was on the bus when I purchased it
 

naskeet

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I have no idea.. that’s just what was on the bus when I purchased it

Can the draw and post a schematic diagram of your entire brake hydraulic circuit, so that we can see exactly what is connected to what, in what way. Before one attempts to modify the system any further, I think it's important to know what is going on!
 
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