To belly pan or not to belly pan?

[ricknpenny]

Hi, I'm currently restoring a '72 crossover bay with tin top. I know this question has been asked before but do I need to replace the belly pans to keep the strength, or do they only need to give extra strength if the roof is cut out. It seems to me it's six of one and half a dozen of the other when it comes to pros and cons of leaving them off or welding back on. The thing is it's lasted nearly forty years with them on but would it have lasted even longer if access to the chassis was easier.
Any help, advice, or plain rambling on the subject will be gratefully received

cheers
Rick

 

[scott wilson]

question is fella is are you restoring or making your dream bus? restoration says that if it was an original part then make it original...custom says make it solid and then do what the hell you like. Me personally i`d go original but i`m a bit anal like that. On the flip side belly pans are a complete pain in the buttocks and i hate them and all they HIDE :twisted:

 

[ricknpenny]

Exactly.. I'm all for original but they just seem a waste of time, especially when some have them fitted and others like the 68 and the 72 on your site haven't, which leads me to believe they're not needed for strength..Anyway thanks for your view on it..I'll go and do a bit more chin scratching and think it over.

 

[mcvw]

I've just cut the two side ones off my bus as they were shot, and judging from the underside they did a remarkably good job of preserving the chassis. So I think we'll be putting replacements back on.

Also, our bus is a twin slider and I *think* they might add more rigidity to the bus :?:

 

[Pete B]

Have looked at a couple of busses with these and see them as just a water and moisture trap. To me, the concept is rediculous, they do nothing for strength (the bus is solid enough) but provide a perfect housing for water/salt etc and no chance of knowing what is behind them. How can a legitimate mot be done when most of the chassis/outriggers are out of sight?. Never mind replacing them, I'd be vey wary of buying a bus with them in the first place and would have to presume that all above was rotten. Perhaps yours is the exception that proves the rule Mike, or maybe I am just wrong, and not for the first time!

 

[Tofufi]

I intend to make mine firmly attached so they can bolt on

That way, you get the best of both possible worlds - inspect the chassis once a year, and leave them off for the MOT. Ensure everything above is OK, then bolt them on for another year.

 

[pete nice]

Bolt on is deffo the way to go if you are going to be taking them off for repairs.

My van is rock solid so I just left them on. I didn't see the point of the extra work to remove them.

It all depends how bad your van is to start with.

I doubt if it adds much strength, they are splash & rock guards really.

 

[noddy]

Belly pans were fitted to increase torsional rigidity, the question about wether to kepp or take off is down to personal preferance.
I know lots of people call belly pans rot traps, but Ive seen loads of rotten bays that never had them.
I recon if the body is good make sure the drain points are clear if not drill some holes along the edge near the chassis rail, and spray a good coat of waxoyl over the top of the chassis rail paying attention to the inner sill jacking points and the chassis rail.

 

[autostyl]

I've just fitted some to a '72. These will be painted body colour with the rest of the bus, and I've made them bolt on, welding a plate to the outriggers and using captives in these and the chassis and inner sill. As for water traps? I reckon only if crud is allowed to build up inside which would stop the water coming out would there be a problem.

As someone already said- some when you remove the pans are mint underneath, and others are hangin! If you make them removable, its easy to keep a check on any unwanted activity underneath, and will protect from splash and stone chips etc.

Sorry for the crap pics....

 

[ricknpenny]

I like the bolt on idea..definately worth looking at..Mine looked solid from underneath with paint still on them (when the underdseal was scraped off) and the floor in the loading bay looked solid. All in all I thought the chassis would be sound until I started poking holes with a screwdriver above the outrigger (inside the front wheel arch) and spotted the top hat section running across the van looking full of the old tin worm. The problem seems to have been from the dirt build up inside and moisture getting in either through the holes on the end of the groove in the belly pans (not the ones with the rubber seals still intact) or possibly from condensation from cooking and sleeping etc inside the van. Being able to remove them from time to time and clean them out/waxoyl them would make sense.
Thanks guys for your views.

 

[pete nice]

In reality, once you have taken them off & restored the van. When you bolt them back on, I doubt they would need to come back off again. It is nice to have the option to top up with wax oil every now & then.

It is the best option.

 

[mjknight71]

..... are worth the c£200 extra though.... :?

 

[pete nice]

£200 is not a lot if you are doing a full resto. It could be an investment rather than an expense.

 

[matt-me]

Picking up on what pete B said regarding belly pans and MOT's. How can an MOT be given if there is no way of knowing what is hidden under the bellypans?

What seems even more ridiculous is that an MOT tester is not allowed to remove the front pan which protects the steering box etc, which is only bolted/screwed on underneath. This pan can, and in my experience does, hide a whole lot of problems, yet i had assumed (wrongly) it would be removed as a mater of course to inspect some key structural areas of our beloved buses.

Note to self : remember to remove said pan if/when buying another bus. Rant over but has anyon else fallen foul of something like this?

 

[pete nice]

An MOT tester is not allowed to lift carpets, let alone start removing parts of your car.

An MOT isn't worth the paper it's written on. It is the minimum standard on the day of the test and doesn't mean there are no hidden issues.

Unfortunately it is still up to the individual to find any problems before they buy with very little come back to the seller.

 

[Araon]

WHS^^^ they will and can only check what is easily accessed which is why so many issues slip through, you as the driver are responsible and the vehicle can still be impounded the moment it hits the road

 

[Guest]

my floors and pans are in great condition, the centre one is the earlier type, solid with one small drain hole (5mm) so its hard to see whats underneath. I guess i will be taking them off anyway as i need to have the peace of mind.