Twin Carbs - What route for fuel lines?

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Walt

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Looking to replace my fuel lines on my 69/70 bus. Previous owner fitted a 2110 engine with twin Weber 44 idfs, and has a breather box fitted on the firewall. Access behind fan is proving tricky!!

So, fuel line currently runs from my standard fuel pump, straight between the inlet manifold of left carb and side of the tinware on the fan, to a 'T' connector (located just down behind left hand carb) which splits into a short fuel to left hand carb and then longish piece seemingly along the base of the fan housing to the right hand carb.

So...
Is there an actual "suggested" route these lines should ideally take when fitting twin carbs? I.e seen some t connections mounted on engine bay roof/firewall?

Cheers!
 

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Behind fan housing/mounted along fire wall. Looks neat & tidy and won't interfere with the throttle linkage
 

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atafonso said:
Behind fan housing/mounted along fire wall. Looks neat & tidy and won't interfere with the throttle linkage
+1.
And i secure it with "P" clamps and rivet nuts, not self tapping screws.
Abel

I know we don’t always see eye to eye but I’ll take my hat off to you, that is a really good idea. I’ve always doubled nutted bolts coming through the firewall
 

atafonso

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atafonso said:
Behind fan housing/mounted along fire wall. Looks neat & tidy and won't interfere with the throttle linkage
+1.
And i secure it with "P" clamps and rivet nuts, not self tapping screws.
Abel

I know we don’t always see eye to eye but I’ll take my hat off to you, that is a really good idea. I’ve always doubled nutted bolts coming through the firewall
👍👍👍😊😊
 

ozziedog

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:lol: BLIMEY ,,,,, you two agreeing.
There’s a first time for everything and I for one am glad that I was around to see it :lol: :lol:
And while I have both of your attention at the same time, I have a little conundrum of my own that I’d like to throw at you guys before I go off to work.
I’ve got a “new” 1641 from heritage. I’ve had all sorts of issues with it but mostly the rocker gear losing its hair clips and spring washers as in wearing through so the rocker gear slides up the end and I lose a cylinder. Three times it’s failed and always the rearmost cylinder on the near side. Since the last failure, I’ve thrown on some old rocker gear and it’s cured most of the problem. But since then the rockers have stayed together but the exhaust valve needs readjustment every 500-1000 miles. All the others are fine, the locking nut is still locked on this one but the gap is triple or even more. You can hear it on the VW earlybay camp out video, mines about halfway with leopard bumpers and a wolfs head on the front. The tappet looks fine, the valve stem looks ok,no measurement though. I’ve ruled out the cam, so it has to be a follower or a pushrod getting pounded shorter. Musing about a bearing failure on the cam??? Unless I’m missing something so obvious that it might bite me. So that’s the first thing. I was going on the fit and forget magic roundabout but I’ve fallen off it would seem. :roll:
Item no 2
Bollox to this motor and get someone to rebuild and fit a two litre and a six rib I’ve got under the bench. Supposed to be in good shape, but we’ve all been there with a known fantastic motor.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,, you thoughts please mates :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

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I’ll be the first to say if think something is a good idea or commend someone. Just very set in my ways and opinions but unfortunely I can be very abrupt and come across a bit obnoxious :roll: :lol:

As for yours, if I’ve read that right it sounds to me like the rocker geometry side play is on the right side :|

As for gearbox, John Walkett is the boy these days. Rebuilt my 6 rib to marry up nicely with my IDA motor. Speak to him, can’t fault him. He’s on Facebook
 

ozziedog

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Yes, that’s the issue. Gearbox isn’t an issue, i reckon they’re pretty bullet proof. The rocker geometry has been fidgeted with. On the old motors, it was something like,,, , hairclip, springy washer, sprung washer( bent) then the rocker,, then the same again then fixing post etc etc etc. On this modern Brazzy motor, it starts the same then it’s full of nylon bushes and stuff. But changing to old style rocker gear has sorted the wear problems on the hair clips but I’m still having to re adjust clearances very frequently but only on one zoorst valve. I still have the Brazzy rocker gear on the opposite side with no issues at all. So,, do I persevere with Mr Brazzy motor or go crazy and get someone to fit this 2 litre and sixy ribs and buy an anchor to chuck out the window or maybe get some discs. Just if you had any thoughts or experiences with these Brazilian types. :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,, there’s no right or wrong, but I like people’s thoughts :mrgreen:
 

atafonso

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Ozzie, first thing i would check is the springs :shock:
If you have one of the mild performance 1641's from Heritage, chances are that you have HD springs to match the Engle 100 cam(these cams DO require those by the way). That can be too much pressure for the wavy springs of the stock rockers. To cure your problem you just need bolt up rocker shafts and a proper geometry on the valvetrain.
Abel
 

Walt

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atafonso said:
Behind fan housing/mounted along fire wall. Looks neat & tidy and won't interfere with the throttle linkage
+1.
And i secure it with "P" clamps and rivet nuts, not self tapping screws.
Abel

Fab! -Thanks for the replies.
I'll have to look into moving the breather box that's currently mounted on the firewall.
 

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I’d say get some bolt up rocker shafts. I put them in my girlfriends bugs stock engine with stock rockers purely to increase reilablity, those clips are known to ping off and I don’t really want her stranded at the roadside.
 

ozziedog

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Ok, that’s virtually what I’ve done. The troublesome side has been replaced with an old bog standard rocker train and I don’t have any issues with the rocker gear giving it up any more. I still however have the issue with the rearmost nearside zoorst valve having a mahoosive gap on that one valve in less than 1000 miles or maybe even less than that. The locking nut is still tight but that one is rattling right now like Sandy Nelsons next record, even Ringo Starr couldn’t keep up. Could it be the cam , nah don’t think so or it would be both sides, maybe valve stem but it look good, as does the rocker face, so we got cam follower or pushrod ? Anything else mates ? :mrgreen:
So stick with it, I’m still driving him. Or rebuild my type 4 and find out how it fits perhaps.

Ozziedog,,,, it’s not serious, we’re still mobile :mrgreen:
 

atafonso

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ozziedog said:
Ok, that’s virtually what I’ve done. The troublesome side has been replaced with an old bog standard rocker train and I don’t have any issues with the rocker gear giving it up any more. I still however have the issue with the rearmost nearside zoorst valve having a mahoosive gap on that one valve in less than 1000 miles or maybe even less than that. The locking nut is still tight but that one is rattling right now like Sandy Nelsons next record, even Ringo Starr couldn’t keep up. Could it be the cam , nah don’t think so or it would be both sides, maybe valve stem but it look good, as does the rocker face, so we got cam follower or pushrod ? Anything else mates ? :mrgreen:
So stick with it, I’m still driving him. Or rebuild my type 4 and find out how it fits perhaps.

Ozziedog,,,, it’s not serious, we’re still mobile :mrgreen:
If you having to adjust the exhaust valve on n3 constantly, i would be worried of the valve giving signs of dropping :shock:
How hot is the engine running? Fuel mixture? How many miles do you have on the engine?
Either your lifter is getting badly worn or the valve is stretching. You can remove the sump plate and strainer and try to have a look at the lifter base using a torch.
Abel
 

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Is there any sign of the valve and collets being pulled through the retainer? Like Abel says valve might be dropping you’ll be in a whole world of bother if that happens :?

Personally I’d get it out and apart now, fix a small problem before it becomes a big, expensive 1.
 

ozziedog

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I think you both might be right. I’ve been using an ancient technology called TITL, and it’s worked so far. I’ve also been waiting for it to break so I can have a good poke about in there. But you may both be right. Do you think that would account for all the wear on the Brazzy rocker gear ? I might just poke a boroscope through the plug hole and see what I can see with that zoorsty valve. This is sposed to be fun innit.

Ozziedog,,,,, Trust It To Luck, :mrgreen:
 

atafonso

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The rocker wear is probably down to poor materials and workmanship, so common nowadays :( , for that reason i always recommend using the OG German parts as much as possible. ;)
Abel
 

ozziedog

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atafonso said:
The rocker wear is probably down to poor materials and workmanship, so common nowadays :( , for that reason i always recommend using the OG German parts as much as possible. ;)
Abel


Thanks Abel, that’s why I’m considering this type 4, just because it’s a stock VW item from way back when. I’m also of the opinion guys that if you got something original, it’s ok, but anything you need to add to that to make it run is maybe gonna let you down. I think Karlos is right and I should probs get on and at least have another look and then decide to risk and run or strip and save :msn4: Good ideas guys, open her up and drop the rocker gear off, have a good nose at that pushrod, maybe pop my endoscope down the tube and see what I can see.

Ozziedog,,,,,,,, O.K. You’ve guilt tripped me into it :lol: ;) :mrgreen: ;) :lol:
 

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