Water in engine

[BRAD]

Afternoon, I decided to change my air filter on a my 32/36 carb.

To my horror when I took off the oil breather pipe it was full of milky crap, so I went to remove it from the pedestal base so I can clean it all out and about an egg cups worth of water came out!!!.

Any ideas?
It's my daily driver so never sits around, engine is a 1776 and a year old from the VW engine co, and they serviced it around September ish.

Cheers

Brad

 

[67panel]

Engine running cold , condensation is a problem if the engine (all motors not just aircooled ) isn't getting hot enough to evaporate the moisture . After market breathers are poor, is yours a "sealed" system (1 pipe) or does it have a vent pipe going down as well . Does your engine have cooling flaps/thermostat fitted ?

 

[BRAD]

No flaps or thermostat, I just sit while it warms up and the auto choke drops back down from 1800rpm to 800 ish.

There are extra breathers from R covers and just the other running from pedestal to base of air filter.

Cheers

 

[Tofufi]

No thermostat means your engine won't get hot in winter.

Fit one, and it'll likely improve or solve the problem unless your van only does short journeys.

 

[BRAD]

Not seen all the bits I'm missing for sale anywhere when I did look, but that was years ago.
Can you get the whole lot flaps, thermostat and linkages off the shelf anywhere?

 

[Vancam70]

I've got the same problem , caused by very short journey to work .my breather pipe blocks up with the sludge and I get an oil leak from the rear pulley . I'm going to make or buy a breather box to try and control the sludge as it's going to happen unless it gets a good long run .
I did wonder if semi synthetic oil would be better as it's supposed to be less affected by water but I'm told it's not good for air cooled engines .

 

[BRAD]

Maybe, I have breather fitted from Rocker cover.

 

[Vancam70]

Maybe, I have breather fitted from Rocker cover.

If not thought of that , that would help .
Cheers

 

[67panel]

still wont help if engine running cold, that also means excessive bore wear, poor efficacy/ fuel consumption. Don't know why folk leave the flaps out as they do not restrict cooling when open fully, just another myth to poor maintenance!!! 2nd hand ones are hard to come by , beetle ones are the same so look for fan housing complete .

 

[BRAD]

Hens teeth!, I gave up looking about six years ago, but I suppose you never know what will show up on some parts stall.

 

[chad]

I've got some spare flaps and bars etc. Is yours single or twin port?

 

[Vancam70]

Id be interested if there twin port . Obviously if they're no use to Brad .

 

[cunning plan]

Id be interested if there twin port . Obviously if they're no use to Brad .

I think the flaps are the same on twin and single ports, I believe the only difference is the 'link bar' at the back, however, you can make your own bar from some round-bar bent to shape and two brackets.

 

[chad]

Its a while since I looked at these but am I correct in saying that the 'link bar' with the biggest 'steps' in it is single port?
Thanks

 

[atafonso]

Id be interested if there twin port . Obviously if they're no use to Brad .

I think the flaps are the same on twin and single ports, I believe the only difference is the 'link bar' at the back, however, you can make your own bar from some round-bar bent to shape and two brackets.

You can make a bar with holes easily, but a bar in the exact size and hole positions is not that easy. If the holes are not exactly in the same spot, you can open one side flap’s more than the other and that side of the engine can have less flow therefore getting hotter. I would not try that.
There is a guy named Desi Yates on FB, he has the flaps, linkage and thermostate, but they are not cheap!

Abel

 

[chad]

I've had a look and have both types of bar and the flaps themselves along with the 'hook' that attaches to the thermostat. I may also have a used thermostat and bracket.

 

[cunning plan]

If the holes are not exactly in the same spot, you can open one side flap’s more than the other and that side of the engine can have less flow therefore getting hotter. I would not try that.

Abel

A very good point, although I spent extra time tweaking and caressing the bar into a shape to ensure that both sets of flaps open fully, but due to the play in the setup, I could not get both sets to close fully when the thermostat had cooled down unless I adjusted it again, however that would affect the opening positions again. So, with the choice of fully opening and part closing or part opening and fully closing, I set the bar up for fully opening as that is more important. They still close, but on one side, I would would guess 80% closed, which must be still be better than no flaps, which is how the engine was before. :shadey:

I have read that just having he flaps there, even if they do not have the thermostat, are beneficial as they help distribute the air evenly over the head fins. arty0021:

 

[Vancam70]

I've had a look and have both types of bar and the flaps themselves along with the 'hook' that attaches to the thermostat. I may also have a used thermostat and bracket.

How much are you wanting for them ?

 

[atafonso]

If the holes are not exactly in the same spot, you can open one side flap’s more than the other and that side of the engine can have less flow therefore getting hotter. I would not try that.

Abel

A very good point, although I spent extra time tweaking and caressing the bar into a shape to ensure that both sets of flaps open fully, but due to the play in the setup, I could not get both sets to close fully when the thermostat had cooled down unless I adjusted it again, however that would affect the opening positions again. So, with the choice of fully opening and part closing or part opening and fully closing, I set the bar up for fully opening as that is more important. They still close, but on one side, I would would guess 80% closed, which must be still be better than no flaps, which is how the engine was before. :shadey:

I have read that just having he flaps there, even if they do not have the thermostat, are beneficial as they help distribute the air evenly over the head fins. arty0021:

That's what i was fearing
I would only make a bar if i had one to compare and be absolutely sure the holes/dimensions are the same, otherwise i would not install the flaps if the engine had to go back in service and could not wait. Too risky imho.
Yes, just having the flaps is better then not having, they direct the air to the right places in the head. But only with the correct linkage bar and cylinder tins. The aftermarket cylinder tins don't have the deflectors inside

Abel

 

[cunning plan]

That's what i was fearing
I would only make a bar if i had one to compare and be absolutely sure the holes/dimensions are the same, otherwise i would not install the flaps if the engine had to go back in service and could not wait. Too risky imho.
Yes, just having the flaps is better then not having, they direct the air to the right places in the head. But only with the correct linkage bar and cylinder tins. The aftermarket cylinder tins don't have the deflectors inside

Abel

I know what you are saying and if I could find a stock link-bar for 'reasonable' money, then I would change it, but I had the choice of flaps with no thermostat or Link-bar and fabricating my own Link-bar to enable the thermostat to work, and by working I mean at least to 'full cooling' even if the closing is not perfect.

My trail of thought was that had to be better than no flaps (as the engine had before) or flaps with no thermostat or Link-bar.

Here is the Link-bar before I painted it. The brackets are held on with the stock springs.

Also I am planning to use a oil temperature and pressure gauges, so hopefully that will add a buffer of protection.

I've heated the thermostat up a few times and watched the flaps open (hehehehe :cooter: :lol: ), they seem fine and happy opening, all lubed up etc :mrgreen: :rofl:

opcorn: