which welder

[Matt48]

hi

bottom line welding is not rocket science but it does require some skills, I want to learn. So which type and which make? Mig and gasless are my first thoughts.

Sealey?

Going to start with a repair to the back bumper and a couple of body spots, then the sliding door, new skin and inner, then doors with small repairs, the sills can be done by my local garage they did the other side 16 months ago, then onto the front skirt and bottom windscreen. Usual suspect areas and I'd love to learn.

Any thoughts, obviously I will practices on various off cuts from my old mk2 golf and maybe get down to the local scrap yard and buy an old bonnet or something to play with!!

cheers for all your input.

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

I faced the same dilemma a few weeks ago.

After reading various stuff on the internet, (and product reviews) I went with that Clarke 135TE. (with gas)

It was relatively cheap, plugs in standard 13amp mains socket

For body repairs (ie panels) it works fine (on lowest setting) - it's meant to be good for 3/4mm, but I haven't tested that yet.

I think a more powerful welder would need a special 15Amp socket/circuit....

I'm very pleased with it - done a bit of bodywork, made brackets for mud flaps and repaired a few bits and pieces around the house.

You're welcome to pop around and have a look - we're between Horsham/Guildford - drop me a PM...

 

[*Sam*]

Personally I would make sure it uses gas, has a euro torch and industrial wire feed mechanism.
I went for a 165 blue big from welders wearhouse and get on well with it
http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding/Mig-Welder-iMig-165.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There are some good videos on the web site that will help you make your choice.

 

[Hilly_70]

Don't go gassless .. its just false economy.

Much messier welds and will cost a fortune in flap discs to clean up .. not to mention the frustration!

Gas all the way .. and for the money the Clarke 135 is a good buy .. I have that one as well as some other larger ones and turned up its fine for anything on the bus .. if theres a lot of chassis repairs to do maybe go bigger but for general works its great.

Only thing is dont buy the small disposable bottles .. get a large bottle and regulator .. Saves a fortune in the long run.

Hilly

 

[dougievdub]

Hiya, I have a little migmate with gas and on the lowest setting welds panels on my dub beautifully. Definitely some 80 grit flap discs though to tidy up the welds. Just when grinding off the welds let the grinder disc do the work and try not to dig in at the weld as you'll end up grinding out good metal either side which will make it very thin and weak. I may be a lass but my migmate is my best friend Hope this helps

 

[Matt48]

excellent stuff cheers everyone, still researching!!

 

[samgopsill]

i have a miller welded, as said above one with a 'europlug' for the torch that takes industrial size wire spools is what you want, run smoother, more reliable easy to set up etc. mine is a 16amp (like you get at a campsite hookup) with a 13amp adaptor lead on to plug into the house. absolutely no issues with fuses blowing at the sort of power needed for bodywork. the fuse gets a temporary coat of tin foil for chassis work as i'm a dodgey git.

hope this helps

sam

 

[*Sam*]

I know I have already said it and samgopsill has reiterated it but I just wanted to make sure you got the tip.... Euro plug torch and industrial wire feed really are the way to go.
Like Samgopsill I run a normal plug on my welder however. Haven't ever needed to do more than body panel welding so not using much power.

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

what is the advantage of the europlug....?

 

[*Sam*]

The torch dismantles to allow replacement of parts unlike some non euro models like Sip etc, it's industrial grade so tends not to brake, it screws onto the front of the machine so you can take it off for transport or tidying away etc.
its cheeper to replace should you need to than the non euro models and quicker for the reason above.
Have a look at the videos on the welders warehouse link in my first post, loads of great info in them.

 

[le catweasel]

Iv got a clarke 151TE which i run on a normal 13 amp plug, cant fault it tbh although if you run it full chat for too long it will pop the fuse (happened once) great little welder and i assume the 135te is just as good for thinner metal

 

[*Sam*]

That's a point that's jogged my memory, when you are looking for you new welder look at the power increments and how low it will go, given the thin metal often worked with on body work the lower range is just as important as the upper.

 

[Matt48]

how low seen people talk about 10 amps and up to at least 120, is that a good range? Think I'm going mig and gas although I was hoping no gas!

 

[dougievdub]

Mine is a migmate 130 with a large gas bottle -which you can buy outright now so you don't have to rent it - and on the high setting of the low range it's perfect for welding the thin metal of the panels. It works off a normal plug and is ridiculously simple. I got mine second hand and was a bargain at £45! Plenty second hand ones out there and all had to do was get a new regulator (from Amazon) and new tips and wire reel. Best advice, keep it really simple.