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Hey. Had a quick look at the spec for this and it is 240 Volt only. This would mean that you would have to run it through an inverter. It is rated at 50 Watts. If running off of the mains, that is only 0.2 amps, however, running it through the inverter would put a drain on the battery of about...

It may be an earthing issue. Did you check the condition of the earth straps from the battery to chassis and chassis to gearbox? Also, if the mounting point of the starter in the gearbox is particularly dirty/corroded, it can cause a bad earth to the starter body and cause voltage drop.

To be honest, It depends on how you want to use your fridge. In my case, my Danbury is classified as a 'Day Van'. In as much it is more like a Bus layout but with the option of setting up for sleeping. All the storage and cooker are housed in the seat boxes. When camping, we usually have an...

Wow! You were lucky to do that as the catch is riveted to the frame with two aluminium rivets. If you look from underneath you should be able to see the heads.

Thanks for the update. It's useful information like this that helps everybody. :)

Are you running points? Check that the gap hasn't closed up.

I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar and 36mm socket. I also have a 3/4" drive torque wrench to do it back up. IF you are going to use the original gland nut for the flywheel, mark the flywheel and gland nut so you can tighten it to the same position. This will save you having to use a torque wrench...

I bet the baggage trailor wasn't so happy about it! I'm surprised it didn't end up on your roof! 😂

There is another reason it could be, although you probably won't like it! o_O I had a similar problem but only on one side of the bus. The hand brake cables on mine work without any compensation so one side would not lock the wheel no matter how much I tried to adjust the cable. I eventually...

Not the wire but the switch itself can leak around the where the plastic meets the metal part. The other thing to check in that area is the case where the pressure switch screws into. This can split if the switch is screwed in too much because of the tapered thread. As this is on the main oil...

" If you think you can convince me to pull my motor and box in this weather then I reckon you’ve got another think coming," Lightweight! :LOL: You could always strip the spare and see what that is like. Then it's just a swap!

The problem is, if you leave it, it can cause further damage/wear to other parts. Like selector forks, syncromesh not to mention the pinion and crown wheel and the gears themselves. My gearbox being the early one without the clutch bearing sleeve I didn't want to let it get too bad. They are...

I do! 1969 Danbury.

You are probably right about the bearings. I have just had my gearbox rebuilt by John Walklett as my gearbox would whine like a WW2 truck under load. On stripping it, John found worn pinion and mainshaft bearings and the housing was also worn allowing the bearing to move. If your housing is...

If you had a bent valve then you wouldn't get the correct cylinder pressure. Do a compression check on that cylinder. The other thing you could have done while the rocker shaft was out is to put a straight edge along the tops of the valve stems. If they are are all touching the straight edge...

That's a shame! Would be a useful resource.

So it was. Not sure why it showed up as recent activity!? Would be nice if the cause was identified though.

The handbrake problem may be caused by the steel tube rusting out where it passes through the chassis rail. I had the same problem. Could also be the flexible outer rusted inside. I'd check both!

Check the simple things first. Your description sounds like it may be the points gap has closed up! Check the gap and ignition timing before messing with the carb.

Thanks guys. I'll contact John.