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That's normal. It's when you feel someone else's age that the trouble starts. :lol:

Had the same problem with play on the shaft/rivets (the ones that allow the wiper blade to pivot away from the screen). Play here causes the wipers to judder on the glass, very annoying. Fortunately the springs were still good. Ended up making new slightly oversize shafts from some stainless...

Nice video of a rescue in the mountains of a 55 panel https://youtu.be/z_aoJDpkjmM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Make sure your vac advance on the dissy is working correctly. It's primarily an economy device because it provides extra spark advance on light throttle. Running that much advance on full throttle would cause detonation/pinking.

Live goes to horn, comes out the other side of horn and goes up the column outer tube. This is then earthed by the horn button when you press it. The horn button gets its earth from the column inner which earths through the steering box back to the chassis. Likely suspect would be the...

Indeed. On a stock mechanism it's impossible to get reverse without first pushing the gear lever downwards to compress the spring and get past the detent.

:lol: I looked at the glass ones that can be dismantled but, rightly or wrongly, I thought they looked a little fragile. I settled for a plastic one intended for commercial vehicles. It's larger and more solid than the normal car ones. It's doing ok - so far ;)

I have mine in the engine compartment but it's only been there since 1973 so I am not sure how it will do in the longer term.

Do you mean the radio comes out as well as falling into the dash? If so you will need two plates, one on either side of the dash. It's a pain but it's possible and easier than welding in new metal or replacing the dash.

I didn't mean slow the vehicle down, I meant change gear slowly as in taking your time moving the lever from one gear to another. :) And yes, mr scoops makes a good point. Sometimes, if the gear oil is old, changing it helps. Normal EP 80/90 works fine. If you do change the gear oil make sure...

Interestingly, the introduction of mot tests did not appear have any significant effect on the (small) number of road accidents attributed to vehicle faults here or indeed at my Canadian friends location. Puzzling. I suspect mobile phones are much more of a threat than old cars.

Agreed. 8.5 works well.

You can use a metal plate cut like the front panel of the radio, only larger. Use this to sandwich the dash between the two.

Are you sure it's because your getting reverse rather than second gear? If its second or third that's grinding it means the cogs are still turning. This means either your clutch is not fully disengaging or the syncros in the gearbox are worn. If changing gear slowly stops the grinding then...

Well it's certainly news to me. Up until now I had only ever heard glowing recommendations and his "highly respected member" rating on VZi gave me the impression he was one of the best out there. In fairness, his comments about the restrictive four into one were relating to the cheap mild steel...

Wow! :shock:

For a 1776 built for torque I would recommend fitting the 1800 gearbox (or its final drive in the box you have, if its in good condition).

Sounds like you need a friend to move the wheel for you whilst your under the bus! Yes the steering box has an adjuster screw. Setting it is basically a case of jacking up the vehicle so the wheels are off the floor. Undo the locknut and turn the adjuster screw inwards to reduce free play. If...

Obviously it's hard to say till you strip it down but it could just be the release bearing or the fork.

Yes internal diameter will be the crankshaft size and outside diameter will be the case size. Your old bearings would seem to indicate the engine was previously reconditioned and that case has been align bored to a larger size and your crankshaft has been ground to a smaller size than stock.