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16 amp flex will be fine, don't use twin and earth for your hook up lead because its solid drawn copper (not stranded) and you will end up with a broken core in the wire after a couple of camping trips, the missus will not be happy if she cant dry her hair :evil: lol :lol:

I think the choke,coil and fuel solenoid are all connected to the same 12 volt ignition feed wire which should be one of the cables. If you connect one of these wires to ground via a test lamp (with ignition on) one of them will give a bright light on the lamp (12v ignition feed). The other...

Disconnect the ignition barrell (unplug it if possible) turn all the lights off etc. re connect the battery via a 10amp fuse in a fuseholder, see if the fuse blows for a start.

I'd go bigger, the dynamo is easily capable of exceeding that current. I'm sure i ended fitting 30 amp fuses to my split charging circuit because it was blowing 25's ;)

Try your local electrics place, i had a similar problem on mine, it cost £15 to fit and supply a new solenoid. If i hadnt stripped the rest of the starter myself and found it to be good inside i'm sure they would've tried to sting me for more :roll: James

Shagged switch? must be short circuiting to the case of the switch somehow :roll:

It might be worth checking the brushes and connections etc before parting with some money. Mine had a similar intermittent problem which turned out to be the voltage regulator, there was a break in the resistance wire on the base of the unit which was the responsible gremlin. The regulator has...

Ditto 8) . A good original vac advance is what you need

Looking really good, will be a really solid bus with no hidden horrors when finished, even better ;)

It is advisable to do a pukka job ;) at least removing the floor coverings over the sills because if the repair is done properly the spot welds should be drilled out which is much easier to by drilling down through the floor, obviously the floor will get very hot when welding in the new sills...

Hi mate, You need something like this, but i'm sure you can get it cheaper tho ;)...

It is highly unlikely there is anything wrong with your fuelling system, the 34ict's have crap needle valves which pass fuel through even minimal pressure,the same happened to me last year. To solve this problem permanently all you need to do is buy a fuel cut off solenoid like those used in...

Status every time, used Schofields previously, but their seals are extremely hard to fit and consequently take 3 times as long to install :(

Check the condensor too ;)

The bus or the pants??? :lol:

Yep, the same principal as the dormobile pop top window claytonrite seals, run the strip through the eye of the tool and then use the tool to open the rubber valley whilst pushing the tool along and feeding the trim strip in, easy on straights, a bit more tricky on corners ;)

Looks very straightforward, now for the hard bit, what about the price? :?:

Just a hunch, but try checking to see if the brakes are binding with the back of the van jacked up with the engine running, just to see if the servo is causing the problem. Also try driving the van with the rear brake adjusters fully backed off too see if that has any effect :roll: Any more...

Does it leak oil?, does it drive ok?, presumably the part is to do with the output shaft oil seals etc, if the van does not leak and drives ok i'd be inclined to see how you get on with it, I'm sure stripping the box is no easy matter but by the time you've messed about with it it's probably...

Thanks for the info, i reckon i'll have the fittest liver in Shropshire if i want one of those. Would be nice to fit something a bit more pokier to my bus at some point. Doing 25mph up those long welsh hills gets a bit embarrasing after a while :oops: