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That is why fuses are important.

Crimp wires as solder could melt if there was a high current but solder now to get you going. That bk/we/ gn wire is the supply from the fuse. Should be White 8Amp. A Red fuse is 16A

Here is a link to circuit drawings for various models. I hope this helps .See the attached dwg taken and you can see bk/we/gn is the common from switch J and D is the relay https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt2.php

Pic of relay terminals

Put an electric fuel pump in which gives instant fuel when ignition is on. (not dependent on engine turning over to give fuel to carb) Eliminates possible fuel leaks into sump too. Have you changed the flexible fuel breather connections behind the firewall? Engine needs to be out for this so...

Read the labels. Recycle says lead and hazards says acid. It's lead acid sealed.

Bad earths cause havoc with electrics especially lights. My engine kept running with the key removed until I took my foot off the brake. It was a bad earth on the tail light!!

RTV GASKET SEALER if you have a leak but fibre washer or a Dowty washer is the best (Dowty seals, also called bonded seals, are a washer kind of seal used to tighten the connection around screws and bolts. They are typically made of both a metal and an elastomer material.)

Have you had a look ? Is there a fuel stain or puddle on the floor left side right side ? Looked in engine bay at hoses?

All this stuff supplied by all these big name is sub standard. I bought new window chrome and the quarter light hinge rusted in days. The new alloy slot mags have now got corrosion tracking before they were even on the road!! Where is most of this stuff manufactured? Let me guess?

Get a Blazecut (or something similar) in the engine bay. At least a T series or a C series. How much do you love your van???

Look on Evilbay or Face ache . I got mine on there as there seem to be plenty.

Probably made in ROC?

Then the plug on the inflator is the problem not your wiring. Replace /check the connections on it

Do this save weight and also insulate before the top layer of 10 mm

Here are two more pics. ~One of an actual kit and the other of circuit

Replace the switch and /or use a relay. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=404521

That pipe will produce petrol fumes especially if the tank is full in hot weather. The rest of the pipework is buried behind the firewall and connected to the tank. There are rubber splices appx 2 inches long at various points. This is an extreme fire hazard as they are very possibly in there...

check the cable tube has not been modified or rerouted slightly. Get that jubilee clip off and put back to stock. I've seen stranger things on other peoples T2's

Check the basics. Make sure all earths are good to chassis and the braid from engine to chassis with no visible corrosion. Remove clean and coat connections in vaseline or copperslip. The copper braid which is attached to gearbox often will have corrosion because of dissimilar metals of...