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I've always used an old sports drink bottle to refill oil 500ml at a time. The oil doesn't come out the end when you turn the bottle over without squeezing it and there's plenty of clearance between the bottle and the engine bay ceiling.

I have mine underneath the petrol tank above the gearbox.

Could you fit it inside an ashtray?

I used the Empi one and managed to wedge it into a machine mart engine stand. I had to cut a piece of metal tube and put it over the bit that pushes into the engine stand to pack it out a bit, but the Empi one was a study enough piece of kit.

I drove mine around France for Euro 2016. We had tickets for the quarter final in Marseille and then the one in Paris two days later, so that was a bit of a mission. Was a great trip though and the only issue we had was an oil leak that meant I put 4.5 litres of oil in it over 2000 miles and a...

I had a similar thing (not quite as bad) and squirted a bit of silicone lubricant on a piece of cloth and rubbed the seal with it. The reduced friction helped it stay put.

Well I got the engine built and in. It's done over 500 miles now, pulls strong and runs well. A slight concern (being over paranoid) about it running hot, but took it to a garage to get the fuel/air analyser put up the exhaust to see what that was saying and it was ok. Engine is leaking a bit...

The opportunity to go donw to cornwall for the first week of July has come up. For me that's 300 miles from my house. Would you drive it down there (without the lead boots) without having the Air/Fuel mixture checked out? Ozziedog - I'll have to find that thread.

I better make sure the string's short or it'll block my view :mrgreen:

I always hate playing around with carb settings.. So to enrich it it would be to undo the little screw a touch and leave the big screw well alone, or am I going to end up with idling issues? And yes, this is coming from a person who has built an engine and is now bothered about two tiny...

70 was for a brief couple of seconds. It's usually going around 50-55 and never really pushing the pedal to the floor. However, maybe taking the lead out of the boots will be a better idea! From reading the Wilson book, it said around 300 miles that the engine would be broken in, but maybe I...

So.. new engine built (by me), new everything bottom end (re-ground crank, re-bored case, new bearings), 1300 heads fly cut to 1600 and old original pistons/barrels rehoned. I've covered nearly 400 miles on this engine and apart form the issue the other week about it cutting out from letting...

So it appears to have been fixed. Took it for a 20 mile test run on Sunday after doing the following: - check tappets (number 1 valves were a touch tighter than others, might not have set them correctly first time) - changed the oil - removed the exhaust and engine support bar - fitted a new...

Klassicfab rear corners are very good. A lot pricier, but found them a great fit when replacing a corner that had been welded on top of rust!

Checked some more last night and it definitely doesn't cut out from low revs or if you let it drop gently from high revs.

I wasn't there, but I am based in South Croydon.

Hi, I have a problem with my engine at the moment where it will cut out pulling up to traffic lights etc.. I fitted a new engine that I built and it has done 200 miles since fitting. It has been running sweet, but has developed this issue: I first noticed it about a week ago going up a hill...

That explains why I have a couple of different types then as my Dad had late 1303 Beetles. Is there a preference other than it fitting in with the early style? Is one better than the other?

Hi, I'm rebuilding an engine and stripping bits off my old one. I have two different oil filler types. One with a drainage tube attached and one without. Does it matter which one I use? I've already put a piece of tinware on the rebuilt engine that doesn't have the hole in it for the...

Well I managed to get some permatex, so I think I will break the engine down again and attempt to reseal it this time with no leaks...