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I'd agree with @Clem, wrong rear arches for a 68 as well!!

It clears a Rusty Lee bed without the riser brackets, remember the bed comes forward as it goes down and doesn't catch, other makes of bed do sometimes

Wish I'd fitted one to the hightop when I built it

Needs to be a bit closer to the gearbox to fit it :ROFLMAO:

Yep I run Maxxis Worm Drives on my crewcab, but its completely stock height, I think you might struggle with sizes if you are lowered at the front. I run 195R14's all round.

Sold that to buy the crewcab but there was the 914 at the same time :ROFLMAO:

1968 Velvet Green Crewcab 1971 Neptune Blue factory hightop high slider 1978 LT karmann Mobile Coachbuilt At one point we had 1970 Brilliant Blue Sunroof Deluxe as well as those listed above🤣

Unfortunately people lost interest and after Covid I think we only held one more, numbers were down to the late teens/early thirties and its a lot of work sorting it out but also over the whole weekend, never really had time to enjoy them, The first vid is 2018, 50th Anniversary one was the 2017...

I'd get a second opinion on the engine as it may not be a total loss, who is your trusted garage? Is it you that broke down near Lancaster?

Be very careful fitting the Joe Blow or Kompressor haus kit unless you have a way of altering the timing, they simply do not work with a standard dizzy set up despite what both companies tell you, they will overheat massively and also setting them up can take an age and it needs to be done on a...

The shock technique with the tool from Neil @ Litesteer is how we get all of ours and customer ones off.

There are 2 types of switches depending on year, early ones only have 4 wires, later ones have 6 wires, have you got the right one, 68-70MY and then 71 to 74MY

Having rebuilt lots of boxes I've never seen a 2 piece peg as far as I'm aware the 2 piece design was from a split not a bay. looking at the output shaft it has a lot of wear in it which will be creating the play as it will move side to side in the steering box case, the bushes within the case...

Ive got a used 3/4 one for sale in Bolton (Its not a Rusty Lee one), came out of a bay and has cushions with it, needs some feet brackets but thats it.

Keep going Sparky, you are getting there (y)

As Clem mentioned, as your top adjuster is at full height, you may find the bottom ball joints pop off as its actually being forced the wrong way at the moment, the top adjuster is meant to be higher on the beam than the bottom one currently the arms are working against each other and under...

Can you get a picture of your spindles from the back of the wheel, that will give a better understanding of what you are running but it looks like an original beam that someone has welded adjusters into and if you are running flipped spindles with upside down balljoints you will get a lot more...

A few of us aircooled mechanics looked at this and it appears the latest gaskets have a lot more rubbish in them rather than just cork which under a microscope produces an uneven sealing surface, the Elring ones are absolute rubbish and will not seal without sealant. One of the mechanics did...

Nothing wrong with upgrading to keep it rolling along nicely, better brakes and a bigger engine are always good bets and are 100% reversible if the next custodian wants to go stock, thats the joy of VW's, each to their own. We run 2 buses (crewcab & hightop) both with 1776 and 'freeway flyer'...

As others have said to raise it you really need to dismantle at least the bottom ball joints to take the tension off the leaves and remove the top damper bolt as that will stop it moving as well, adjust and then refit. If you are looking at gaining 2cm I'd be inclined to move it 2 notches (paint...