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Andy I'm about this weekend if ya need a hand ;) Drop me a text or summat Hilly

Id say be wary of the tyres too if its been stood for that long .. May be perished or out of shape if your planning on driving it. Other than that .. wake it gently .. Id check plugs too and maybe a little oil in the bores .. turn it over without spark to build oil pressure then after above...

Anyone have any drum brake drop spindles for sale? Or recommendations for new without breaking the bank or buying crap ones! Thanks chaps. Hilly

could be part of an old valve stem oil seal .. is it metal or a black plastic kind of material .. Hard to tell from pic P.

Thanks chaps for the info .. It does vary from different sources on when to fit the dizzy drive .. I have trial fitted it in before the crank and cam .. but really just to see how it sits and understand it a bit better. I can remove it now and carry on with the build. It was more the position...

Its ok chaps .. I have my answer! ... Crank in #1 TDC with dist aligned .. turn 90 degrees to align drive and cam dots.

Quick question for you engine guys here .. Ok .. slowly building an engine back up and just fitting crank / distributor drive and Cam.. Lower crank into case half holding 1 and 2 rods .. (so 1 is essentially TDC) My 2 marks on the Cam drive sprocket are 90 degrees from the Cam meeting point...

Is the crank available / any good from the split engine please bud? Cheers Hilly

Cheers dude .. I'll find one :) Hilly

Ok .. so I have approx 0.18mm run out from the clutch face of the flywheel... https://youtu.be/fNUfRGAjmS8 Is it a replace crank kinda thing? Or a crank grind? .. either way .. any budget conscious suggestions ;) Hilly

Will do bud .. thanks for the info .. I'll check and report back :)

Thanks Abel .. Do I need to check for runout movement on the flywheel on the edge or front face or both? .. I'll have a play in the garage and see what I get .. Much appreciated bud .. Hilly

I may have to bud .. Don't worry .. I'll deffo look after him for the assistance :)

Cheers Abel .. I put the cases together and even used plastigage in between the case halfs next to the bearings and saw no light through the crank gaps and the plastigage went down to 0.002 so I dont think it is the line bore thats out .. I also found this ...

If you reach over the back of the fan shroud, right to the bottom and feel for a linkage bar running across the bottom of the shroud .. this opens and closes the flaps.. if its there the flaps probably are .. if not .. theyre not! I'm not far away from you if you need a hand with anything :) Hilly

Thanks for the info Abel .. much appreciated. The flywheel is just on loose to turn it so the wobble is just cos it's not tight .. I have no shims in there at the moment either. I tried it without the dowels in too and it was the same. Cranks not been reground, just used same same inner main...

Just uploaded a video to demonstrate how free / tight the crank is : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JEMPnsmi0w Thoughts appreciated :)

Thanks guys .. Ive checked with plastigage on number 2 bearing (as its the split one) and clearance is 0.002 in .. I can't turn it with my little finger, its not quite that free .. bearings click into the case ok without much force.. The engineering place took 9 months just to get it done in...

Just a top end rebuild .. and painted inside the engine bay while it was out .. Been trying to sort the beetle .. but its slow going! :D

Thats come on a bit since I last saw it .. Looking good fella :) Hilly