Costing Undersealing

[trebor]

How much do you reckon it costs to do and what's the best way to do it ? Can you brush the stuff on ? I can see its going to be a pig to do upside down. Would I be better off paying someone :shock:

 

[BRAD]

Hello mate, I don't like underseal myself as it's difficult to get off.
I used waxoil about 20ltrs of iy which is probably a bit ott.
Easy to apply, warmed it up poured into large garden weed sprayer added white spirit sprayed it on, easy job done as long as you keep it warm while spraying or it'll solidify.

 

[trebor]

I have never used waxoil, I sprayed a M2 capri once with paint thats about it ? Was thinking brushing might be slower but less messy doing it upside down. Can you hire those bolt on rails so you can tip the vehicle on its side ?

 

[BRAD]

Hold up mate your making it over complicated and expensive, there was no mess really, any overspray simply wipes off.
Buy a 5ltr tin I think you can even buy the kit with a sprayer included try it under a wheel arch, you'll see how easy it is.
Biggest plus of wax oil I think is you can still see through it sort of so will see any damage or rot or in my case some nice paint work.
Really a summer job but no reason you can't do in the winter, if you was closer I'd say come round and I'll lend you my sprayer and give you a hand.

 

[Pete B]

'Clem' (admin on here) advertises a cavity wax service. Wax is what you want and it needs to be sprayed into all the hollow sections for proper protection, underseal slapped on the visible surfaces will do nothing to prevent the vehicle rotting from the inside out.
Give Clem a shout, I doubt it's as costly as you may think and he has done loads so knows what he is doing.

 

[trebor]

Does the road grit stick to waxoil if it's sprayed on the underside ? I know the beetle chassis I've worked on the best bits are at the back where oil has come from the engine and saved it. Trouble is all the **** sticks to it !

 

[Bay pride]

Hold up mate your making it over complicated and expensive, there was no mess really, any overspray simply wipes off.
Buy a 5ltr tin I think you can even buy the kit with a sprayer included try it under a wheel arch, you'll see how easy it is.
Biggest plus of wax oil I think is you can still see through it sort of so will see any damage or rot or in my case some nice paint work.
Really a summer job but no reason you can't do in the winter, if you was closer I'd say come round and I'll lend you my sprayer and give you a hand.

This is what I love about this stuff (apart from the vans), a nice bit of comaradary


Sent from my arse using Tapatalk

 

[BRAD]

Well in all fairness a little crap sticks to it, but mines on so thick it's like icing on a cake!
Not really noticable but I don't use mine on a daily basis like some, more of weekends and never been out on the salt over nov to feb .
So maybe one of the daily drivers can give you some feed back, but I've only ever used underseal once on one of my cars it's pony, any surface damage will let water ingress and rot her out, you wont see it as it'll be hidden by underseal, plus it looks crap and like I already said you can't take it off easily for welding or anything.
Waxoil for me everytime since, so 17yrs worth of heaps.

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

Take a look at what i did for undersealing, about halfway down. Details of the products used, prices etc all on my thread..

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11057&start=220" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There were a few different products I used, hopefully rust wont be a issue, though anything that's in the seams may be a issue, if the bus was done like it has been now from new, then it would be a different matter, doing it 5 years after landing in the UK too... :roll:

I used a molecular rust converter, which converts and ecapsulates any rust into a very hard finish, then a 2 part expoxy primer in gloss black, further encapsulating anything, then all cavitys and chassis, bellypans, doors, steps etc etc injected with a cavity wax, then finally, UPOL Raptor Truck Bed Liner. I choose this instead of normal stone chip because, well, it's better! It seems to have many advantages over normal stone chip, and certainly seems a more permanent option. It can be tinted with any colour paint, i went for body colour, much quicker than waiting for stone chip to go off, and then painting with top coat, it only needs a maximum of 10% top coat, just fill, shake and shoot it on. Done, no reactions as you may get with normal stone chip, as the solvents can react and cause the top coat paint not to stick

Got it from here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-pol-Raptor-Tintable-Tough-Urethene-Coating-Truck-Bed-Liner-Kit-Trailers-/110785795320?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item19cb5914f8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Mixed with pearle white, one shot job, better option than stone chip and then top coat. Nice finish, but could be adjusted with more or less gun pressure no doubt. It has "give" in the feel on the surface, a little like wine gums, midget gems, jelly babys, so not a solid coat, this will help resist stone chips and knocks, the colour seems well bonded into the coating, and doesn't seem to crack, though i haven't pressed too hard!

It seems quite thick in the consistency, and may well aid some element of soundproofing according to the spec of the product:

U-pol Raptor Kit - contains 4 x Raptor Tintable & 1 x Activator

U-POL's top-class super-tough durable 2-pack urethane coating against rust, corrosion, salt, damp and extreme temperatures.
Restores even the most worn and uneven truck beds or van floor to new pristine-look finish.
Dries rapidly to give scratch and stain-proof surface that is also U.V. resistant.
High adhesion, waterproof, flexible, helps deaden sound & vibrations.
Easy and quick to use, as simple as: FILL - SHAKE - SHOOT®

Kits contain 4 x 750ml bottles of base and 1 x 1L of hardener - you can add up to 10% solvent basecoat tinter to colour match to the item you are coating

Enough material to re-spray the largest truck beds.
Apply with schutz gun, roller or brush to obtain different textures.

Also available in Black

http://www.u-pol.co.uk/product-cat/83/raptor%E2%84%A2-bed-liner.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here are some pictures:


























Any questions, let me know!

Cheers

Alistair

 

[BRAD]

Looks alright to me, can you flat it down to get a smooth finish?

 

[aogrady]

Looks alright to me, can you flat it down to get a smooth finish?

Hi

As it's a rubbery surface, probably not, it's a truck bed liner, which is normally textured. I guess adjusting the thickness, air pressure etc would change the finish, I dont have a problem with it, you may be able to sand it, not tried it

Cheers

Alistair

 

[Clem]

I use Morris Ankor Wax, to do everything around a van, inside, outside, cavities will take about 8 litres. I heat it up and spray it, using a proper compressor. I charge £150 to do everything but thats a cash amateur deal, so may be more expensive at a pro garage.

 

[trebor]

Do you have cleaning equipment too for the underside ?

 

[magoo]

A pro garage will charge about £500 plus.

That will be for scraping off the original VW underseal, masking up the bus and spraying the stuff around every nook and cranny.

It's not a nice job and I'm happy to pay someone to do stuff like that because I simply don't have the spare time at this time of year!

I chose Dinitrol because they claim it goes onto 90% of modern cars in Europe and the Ministry of Defense use their products, so it must be decent stuff.

About x8 litre cans should do the underneath and you'll need thinner stuff for the cavities.

Overpainting the underseal I thought was perhaps an unnecessary luxury, it left the VW factory with black underseal and they only painted the visible parts.

Picture here at the bottom..taken yesterday.

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=52779" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[cowpuccino]

A pro garage will charge about £500 plus.

That will be for scraping off the original VW underseal, masking up the bus and spraying the stuff around every nook and cranny.

It's not a nice job and I'm happy to pay someone to do stuff like that because I simply don't have the spare time at this time of year!

I chose Dinitrol because they claim it goes onto 90% of modern cars in Europe and the Ministry of Defense use their products, so it must be decent stuff.

About x8 litre cans should do the underneath and you'll need thinner stuff for the cavities.

Overpainting the underseal I thought was perhaps an unnecessary luxury, it left the VW factory with black underseal and they only painted the visible parts.

Picture here at the bottom..taken yesterday.

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=52779" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That looks a real nice finish and reasonably straight forward, loved Mr aogrady's also, which looks the ideal , but the van is unlikely to get sprayed again for a while !

need to make a decision on my van as planning a longish trip and bound to catch salt and stuff

presently sprayed in 2k Turkis Green

[photobucket ][/photobucket]

Ideally would like a Dinitrol / Rubbery finish but clear, My Bay is black under sealed and I didn't really worry about it. I guess because this is new paint and shiny !!!

So does anyone know or recommend a brush clear type stone chip product ? This I would use under arches.

The rest of it I am thinking straight forward Ankor Wax and as i'm lazy, book it in with Clem !!!

 

[aogrady]

That looks a real nice finish and reasonably straight forward, loved Mr aogrady's also, which looks the ideal , but the van is unlikely to get sprayed again for a while !

need to make a decision on my van as planning a longish trip and bound to catch salt and stuff

presently sprayed in 2k Turkis Green

[photobucket ][/photobucket]

Ideally would like a Dinitrol / Rubbery finish but clear, My Bay is black under sealed and I didn't really worry about it. I guess because this is new paint and shiny !!!

So does anyone know or recommend a brush clear type stone chip product ? This I would use under arches.

The rest of it I am thinking straight forward Ankor Wax and as i'm lazy, book it in with Clem !!!

Hi!

There are different versions of the UPOL Raptor, i have the tintable, you add a max 10% of your body colour - or whatever colour you want, maybe you can add a clear top coat to the product, this would give you a rubbery shield, but clear with protection. Maybe you can add the 10% as thinners? I think the products was clear before we added the L87?

It'd be bloody awesome if that was the case, a clear coat would rock! Maybe check the data sheet and mail them?

I used x2 full packs, so about 10ltrs just underneath, which is why it is a thick finish, especially designed for truck beds remember That's how i wanted it to look though, I wanted it body colour after the epoxy primer, and wanted a stone chip type finish, (which may have been a thinner coating,) but as i found good reviews on the Raptor, and the added bonus of tintable, I could do the "stone chip" and body colour in one hit.

the entire treatment i did from the start to finish is probably overkill, you could do a lot worse than just Ankorwax over the turkis - I think the option Clem suggested is very good indeed, if i already had body colour - this is what i would do.

Check out to see if there is a clear tint possible on Raptor?

Cheers,

Alistair

 

[magoo]

So does anyone know or recommend a brush clear type stone chip product ? This I would use under arches.

Do you have access to more Turkis paint?

Just paint over one of the 'overpaintable' stone chip type products. In my case Dinitrol 445.

 

[cowpuccino]

So does anyone know or recommend a brush clear type stone chip product ? This I would use under arches.

Do you have access to more Turkis paint?

Just paint over one of the 'overpaintable' stone chip type products. In my case Dinitrol 445.

well I guess that's the obvious solution, wood for the trees and all that !
Yes can get some paint , might just do a test patch and see how it looks.

Like Alistair's Raptor clear coat concoction though , if that could be done , would be bomb proof.

Thanks for both the ideas , some investigation is needed !