Dropped Spindle?

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71Dormobile

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Can anyone explain with a few piccies if poss what a dropped spindle is.....

I'm reading that it's the safest route to lowering a bay and keeps te ball joints in the correct positions with a mild 2 - 3" lowering.

Also is this something that you can mod yourself / with mild DIY skills or alternatively if you commisoned a machine shop to do a few?

What is involved in adjusting the position etc.
 
71Dormobile said:
Can anyone explain with a few piccies if poss what a dropped spindle is.....

I'm reading that it's the safest route to lowering a bay and keeps te ball joints in the correct positions with a mild 2 - 3" lowering.

Also is this something that you can mod yourself / with mild DIY skills or alternatively if you commisoned a machine shop to do a few?

What is involved in adjusting the position etc.

There are a couple of different types of "dropped" spindle available:
Some have the spindle cut off and rewelded back on 2-3 1/2 inches higher up - wagenswest etc
Others have the ball joints mounted upside down thereby effectively raising the spindle relative to the trailing arms - T2D, transporterhaus

They are not the sort of thing most people are going to be able to make themselves at home.
Once fitted they are a fixed drop, most people tend to weld adjusters into their beam as well to allow for some extra drop/fine tuning.

If you are only looking for a 2-3 inch drop then red 9 kit is a possibility or just putting adjusters into the beam - if you are looking to drop further then you do really need to combine with dropped spindles to ensure that you have enough travel in your ball-joints.
 
Cheers Loxy I'd planned going on drop spindles but not sure which or if I could commison an engineering shop to make some / a batch as when O looked prev. they were only avaibale in the states and seemd to take an age to come over.....

Would mounting a ball joint upside down be as safe as the correct way up? Sounds a bit off the wall but suppose it prevents the need to cut re weld etc. which could also be a weak point...

Will trawl for more info...
 
71Dormobile said:
Cheers Loxy I'd planned going on drop spindles but not sure which or if I could commison an engineering shop to make some / a batch as when O looked prev. they were only avaibale in the states and seemd to take an age to come over.....

Would mounting a ball joint upside down be as safe as the correct way up? Sounds a bit off the wall but suppose it prevents the need to cut re weld etc. which could also be a weak point...

Will trawl for more info...

The guys that do the flipped ball joint spindles - T2d & Transporterhaus (to my knowledge) appear to have spent a lot of time & effort ensuring that they are safe, give either of them a call and have a chat - they seem to know their onions ;)

They aren't cheap though - but well thought out & tested parts rarely are.
 
Fitted mine the other day from Transporterhaus. this photo should give you an idea :D

Photo014.jpg
 
preston said:
Fitted mine the other day from Transporterhaus. this photo should give you an idea :D

Photo014.jpg

Looking good, are there any issues with reversing the balljoints etc?
 
71Dormobile said:
preston said:
Fitted mine the other day from Transporterhaus. this photo should give you an idea :D

Photo014.jpg

Looking good, are there any issues with reversing the balljoints etc?

they are special heavy duty ball joints - the only problem I have encountered is the backing plate needs to be adjusted [ie a square cut out], which is a pain as I had made the spindles up complete, and the flexihose bracket needs altering as it's on top, not underneath. Seem pretty good otherwise, it does lower it quite a bit too seems more than the 3.5" to me [which is good!!]
 
There is an additional, but often more expensive option and that is changing your set up to King and Link Pin, this means changing the beam and adding dropped KnL spindles.

there are a number of people on here who have done it including myself, as I said not cheap but it seems to work very well.
 
dubdubz said:
it does lower it quite a bit too seems more than the 3.5" to me [which is good!!]

True.
Mine was lowered about 3.5 - 4 " before and I could run stock wheels and tyres no problem. I figured Id be able to do the same with the spindles if the adjusters were set as high as possible ... not a chance. Ill get over it ;) but I wish Id set the adjuster in a position that it could have been raised from its original position to enable a 'normal' lowered stance if required.
 
i'm not sure a splitty K&L will fit the 71 you have you would need to check as its a different stud pattern on the beam. You would have to have a beam manufactured with new end plates and the 71-72 stud pattern (there are lots of companies doing this).
 
Johnny said:
i'm not sure a splitty K&L will fit the 71 you have you would need to check as its a different stud pattern on the beam. You would have to have a beam manufactured with new end plates and the 71-72 stud pattern (there are lots of companies doing this).

yes that's true. The split beam pattern changed in august 69 so on a 71 you would need a aftermarket beam with the correct beam pattern. There are plenty of people selling them in stock, 2" narrowed and 4" narrowed. If you were thinking of changing your beam this is an option.
 
Jon

Out of interest what year of splitty beam would I require If I was to go the k&l route on my 68? Also is there much mod work to be done to the split beam or van?
 
Clem said:
dubdubz said:
it does lower it quite a bit too seems more than the 3.5" to me [which is good!!]

True.
Mine was lowered about 3.5 - 4 " before and I could run stock wheels and tyres no problem. I figured Id be able to do the same with the spindles if the adjusters were set as high as possible ... not a chance. Ill get over it ;) but I wish Id set the adjuster in a position that it could have been raised from its original position to enable a 'normal' lowered stance if required.

glad it wasn't just me then lol

the top adjuster is round 2 clicks to clear the gearlinkage...the bottom is stock.dropped it off the stands - holy cow, talk about rake - plus the jack got stuck :lol: so I also tried the adjusters to stock [removed gear linkage] and it's still quite low, not uber by any means but more than I expected. I'll go lower but with std van tires its a squeeze!

need to get the rear monster truck jobs swapped over for normal ones...then when funds allow van rated lower profiles......
 
mattd1984 said:
Jon

Out of interest what year of splitty beam would I require If I was to go the k&l route on my 68? Also is there much mod work to be done to the split beam or van?

All split beams from August 55 will fit on a pre August 69 bay without any modifications, but I would recommend a late split beam (64 to 67 I think) as they are easier to find parts for and work with bay drums and the better bay spindle locking nuts.

If you bought a spindle to spindle split beam and flipped the spindles you would have an instant 4.5" drop. This is because the KnL beam tubes sit closer together and further from the ground (1") and then the flipped spindles (3.5"). Also they are about and 1" narrower than a bay beam so a bit of extra tuck.

I think Pete B and Tim MonkeySpinner used this method on their buses (Tim's bus 'The Speedmaster Bus' has now gone for a narrow beam but it did look great before.

To go lower you would need to fit adjusters as well.

028-1.jpg

CSP's and a good offset have tucked the wheels further.
 

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