hi mate, you'll be surprised how easy it is.
i changed the clutch on my 62 bug not so long ago, and had the engines in and out of numerous bugs and fasties, and although i've never taken a bus engine out, i think it will be the same, roughly.
You will need............
Space bhind the bus to pull the engine out.
Clutch kit, comprising of, clutch plate, pressure plate, and release bearing, £65 GSF
Clutch allignment tool £2.50 piece of plastic, that will be the best bit of plastic you will ever buy!!
Trolley jack, maybe a spare too
Some flat bits of would 3/4 inch thick i use.
Sockets and spanners
WD40
roses tin to put bolts nuts and washers in
Rags to wipe up spillages
Patience
At leat one cup of tea
smoking **** optional (but well clear of the fuel pipes)
you 'll need to chock up the front wheels first, then if you bus is standard height you shouldnt need to jack it up (some tell me if i am wrong here!!) start taking off the rear bumper and all the plates nearest to you, this will give you plenty of room to work.
FIRST DISCONNECT THE MAIN BATTERY AND LESIURE BATT IF YOU HAVE ONE!!!
Then start to unplug all of the electricals that go from the bus to the engine, there's not much but maybe if this is your first time, it wouldnt hurt to label them, dont worry if you dont know what they are, just put a number on the lead with some tape, and put the same number on the plug where it came form. That way, it will at least go back to how it was before you started.
Next disconect the fuel pipe to the carb, i usually put a bolt in the end and tighen it up with a jubilee clip to stop fuel coming out. pull it throught the fan housing and tie it up out of the way.
then disconnect the accelertor cable, and heater cables (if you've got them) and tie thoses out the way too. Also remove the heater plastic pipes.
Now your pretty much ready to unbolt the engine. depending on what exhaust i have on, and how bothered i would be if it got damaged, i would remove the back box of the exhaust and maybe the heat exchangers / j tubes, jut to get them out the way, and reduce the risk of damaging anything when pulling out the engine. Its really easy for the engine to topple over and bend stuff when pulling it out, so you dont want to end up buying more parts then you need to!!
if this is your first time doifng this it would be a good idea to have someone with you just incase! now start to undo the 4 bolts holding the engine to the gear box, it would be a good idea to support the engine with a trolley jack with a bit of flat wood on it under the sump.
Would be a good idea to support the gearbox with some wood too.
Undo the 4 engine bolts, 2 upper and 2 lower.
With the help of someone if you want, just give the engine a firm pull both sides to withdraw the engine from the bus, pull it straight back to the area where you want to change the clutch. I find resting the engine on blocks of wood, just like a fork lift lifts stuff up, it will make it real easy to get the trolley jack back in to wheel the engine back over to put in. The name of the game is to make it easy for yourself, and dont lift anything!!
Undo all of the clutch bolts that hold the pressure plate onto the flywheel, and clutch is in between the pressure plate and the flywheel. I always make a habit of putting bolts back exactly where i found them, so i usually push the bolts in a bit of card in the same pattern as i took them off.
Fit new clutch and pressure plate in the same way you took the old one out, use the clutch allignment tool to make sure it is centered properly, or you will never get the engine back in on the shaft.
Torque up all of the bolts doing them up opposite each other, cant remember what pressure to torque them up, but you'll find this in a haynes manual, or google it.
Its always worth changing the release bearing when you do the clutch , its only a £3 part so you may as well. You'll figure out how to do this just by looking at it, it would take longer to read someones description than it would to do it!!
Now wheel the engine back over and jack it up to slide back in, it will most likely need a good wiggle to fit it back on the shaft, i have been know to lie on my back and give it a gentle even kick with both feet. You will kno when it is lined up ready to bolt back on, when ready, bolts the top bolts back in place first then the bottom 2.
The rest is just a case of putting stuff back on in the reverse order you took them off, you shouldnt need to change any belts or time the engine at all. When you are happy the loom is connected back up, and the fuel pipe is safey back on the carb, wipe any spillages away, and connect the batt back up.
Job done!
hope this helps, and if anyone spots any thing i've missed just add to it. Took me ages to type this, hope no one else has cut as paste the answer in before i've posted this!!!!
cheers
Austin
