Is this a big enough breaker bar for the Rear Hub Nuts?

[cunning plan]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-DRIVE-BREAKER-BAR-FLEXI-BAR-TOMMY-BAR-39-LONG-CHROME-POWER-BAR-R1-/281070147013?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item41711615c5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What do you think? oke: :sign0009:

It seems like a good price considering the one I saw at Big Bang at the weekend was £50! Although I didn't spot what make it was. :?

 

[robjarman]

you may need a length (6 feet!!) of v solid steel pipe (I use scaffold tube) to slide over the end of your bar to extend the turning moment (considerably!!) - so make sure the bar is strong enough for that - and also make sure the socket is supported underneath (I use a screw bottle jack under the socket head) so that the force of the lever does not shear the socket sideways off the nut...good luck!!

cheers
Rob

 

[Bluepeter]

I bought one of these from Machine Mart and it did the job after a while of heating the nut up with a blow torch on one side. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-pro230-1-2-drive-breaker-bar?da=1&TC=SRC-breaker+bar" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Rippers]

Save your money and get one of these, few smacks with a hammer and they come undone no problem, have done loads now and never failed me Before I got this I broke a few breaker bars with extended tubes on the end

http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=3349" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

Rippers - do you do them up with same tool ? - with a breaker bar and bit of maths you can roughly calculate the torque...
(Is the torque that important - or do they just got to be real tight !)

 

[Rippers]

Rightly or wrongly I do use the smacker to tighten them up until I can get the split pin through

With all this said I still use a small breaker bar on the smacker as I'm hitting it

 

[mattp]

I prefer this



Otherwise, 3/4" socket, breaker and a bar

 

[cunning plan]

I bought one of these from Machine Mart and it did the job after a while of heating the nut up with a blow torch on one side. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-pro230-1-2-drive-breaker-bar?da=1&TC=SRC-breaker+bar" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ah, I already have a 1/2", I think I need a 3/4" to make it easier to undo and tighten back up again. Not sure I would trust the 1/2" not to break! :?

you may need a length (6 feet!!) of v solid steel pipe (I use scaffold tube) to slide over the end of your bar to extend the turning moment (considerably!!) - so make sure the bar is strong enough for that - and also make sure the socket is supported underneath (I use a screw bottle jack under the socket head) so that the force of the lever does not shear the socket sideways off the nut...good luck!!

cheers
Rob

Good tip there with the bottle jack arty0021:

I would like a section of scaffold tube, but despite looking for a while, I have not found one for sale or one that someone wants to get rid of etc. :sign0001:

Save your money and get one of these, few smacks with a hammer and they come undone no problem, have done loads now and never failed me Before I got this I broke a few breaker bars with extended tubes on the end

http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=3349" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Interesting..

Rippers - do you do them up with same tool ? - with a breaker bar and bit of maths you can roughly calculate the torque...
(Is the torque that important - or do they just got to be real tight !)

I was just thinking the same thing...

Rightly or wrongly I do use the smacker to tighten them up until I can get the split pin through

With all this said I still use a small breaker bar on the smacker as I'm hitting it

Aha.

I prefer this

Surely that does not loosen the nuts from tight??? It would bend your wrist off!! :shock: :shock: :?:

 

[StuF]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-DRIVE-BREAKER-BAR-FLEXI-BAR-TOMMY-BAR-39-LONG-CHROME-POWER-BAR-R1-/281070147013?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item41711615c5

What do you think? oke: :sign0009:

It seems like a good price considering the one I saw at Big Bang at the weekend was £50! Although I didn't spot what make it was. :?

Thats not a breaker bar - THIS is a breaker bar :shock: :shock: :shock:



Needed to change a slightly weeping flywheel oil seal!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[cunning plan]

Thats not a breaker bar - THIS is a breaker bar :shock: :shock: :shock:

Needed to change a slightly weeping flywheel oil seal!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

:lol:

Was it THAT tight? :shock:

Yeah, but what size is the breaker bar under the scaffa bar? oke: :character0036:

 

[mattp]

I prefer this

Surely that does not loosen the nuts from tight??? It would bend your wrist off!! :shock: :shock: :?:

Oh yes it does, has done about 25 rear ends when they were off vehicles so off scrappers and on the floor -the right tool does the job my friend. But then again it should for the money :lol:

 

[easy]

I wouldnt bother with it, just cut them off, it will save hours of your time. Just pay for new ones. I did this and it was miles quicker than removing them with a bar. 8)

 

[Graham L]

I use a 3/4 shortish socket bar with a long scaffold pole, works everytime


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mattp]

I wouldnt bother with it, just cut them off, it will save hours of your time. Just pay for new ones. I did this and it was miles quicker than removing them with a bar. 8)

Fine if you are good with a cutter but I have seen far to many stub axles that have been damaged by idiots trying this method.

Use the right tools, it's not rocket science, as Graham says, a 3/4 breaker and scaffold

 

[KateLovesPurple]

I use a 3/4 shortish socket bar with a long scaffold pole, works everytime


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WHS

3/4" T bar rather than a pivoting breaker, less chance of it moving around and a 6ft piece of thick wall pipe over the end. Works every time.

I also made myself a wheel lock by cutting up a scrap wheel with a length of angle welded on to it. All I need to do is undo 3 wheel nuts, slip on the bit of wheel, do up the nuts again and roll the van so the angle is against the ground. Absolutely no way the wheel can spin then when you jump up and down on the breaker!

 

[aogrady]

Hi,

You need a torque multiplier, HGV companys use these to get the wheel nuts off:

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/120936109448?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And here's the missus showing you how easy it it....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uribk1Yha6M" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Put your back into it luv

Hope this helps!

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[Valentine Won]

Scaffold pole for me on a breaker bar :mrgreen:
cheers shaun