Rebuilt 1600 Twin Port....

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Rich Oakley

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Long story which I won't bore you with, but I'm trying to set up my newly rebuilt (original) 1600T/P engine and am having trouble getting it running nicely.

When no.1 cylinder is at firing position (see pic below for pulley timing marks etc), isn't the dizzy drive shaft slot supposed to be perpendicular to the crank case split?
DSC05544.JPG


Does it matter if it isn't perpendicular (as per the picture)?
 
when i built an engine for my bettle i bulit it with the dizzy drive 180 degrees outs. bloody thing stank the place out with petrol before my dads mate told me to spin the drive round. however yours doesnt seem like it is 180 out. so im stumped with that one mate
 
Its an early AD case.

I've had a response on another forum and it seems that tha dizzy drive position is not a problem.

Thanks for your answers.
 
Its extremely important how it aligns as it forms part of your timing cct and if not aligned properly, you could in effect be firing in the wrong order, i.e. the 180 deg dissy problem ie firing on 3 instead of 1.....


if that makes sense....

the pics gone now so I can ascertain how far out you are but you are out for sure....

you should pull the drive shaft and fit in the correct gear tooth 90 degrees to the engine centre line with the engine set at tdc on 1 on the compression /firing stroke
 
Hiya Rich,

It looks to me as if your distributor drive gear was inserted incorrectly. Because of the shape of the gear teeth, the distributor drive gear cannot simply be lined up perpendicular to the case seam and then dropped into the hole. The top slot needs to be angled toward the front fuel pump stud before the the drive gear is dropped into the hole. It kinda looks like somebody may have overdone it a bit.
 
you are one tooth out so turning the dissy should sort it though for the time it takes pull the drive and fit it correctly.....
 
Araon said:
you are one tooth out so turning the dissy should sort it though for the time it takes pull the drive and fit it correctly.....

I definitely have no1 at TDC rather than No3, so that's not a problem (I can just about get the engine running)

I have removed the distributor drive and moved it 'round by one tooth. The slot in the drive will not align 90 degrees to the case seam, no matter what I do. We either get this (as found)...
DSC05544.JPG


or one tooth round gets this...
DSC05551.JPG


Here are my conclusions, concerns and questions. Perhaps you could provide some feedback...

1. The slot should be at 90 degrees to the case seam. I cannot get this to align correctly by removing and rotating the drive (see pictures above)
a) Why will this not align?
b) Does it really matter (as I can obviously turn the dizzy body to set the timing)?

2. Assuming that it is ok to leave the dizzy drive as it is above, I presume that trying to line the rotor arm up with the notch in the dizzy body will now be useless in terms of providing a stationary timing point for the set up of the engine.
 
Yep, 90 degrees to the centreline.

I've just spent a couple of hours working on it and have got it running perfectly (so I assume that my answer to Q1b above is probably- NO). However, can anybody answer Q1a and confirm Q2 for me.

Many thanks for your help.
 
the reason I asked is you got two markings on the puley....

1a it should all align as the there all machined for that exact purpose... the crankshaft gear and drive shaft gear both have wudruffs fitted down the same axis to loacte them.....
1b great until it swaps hands or ends up in the shop and someone has a mare setting it up....
2 not at all as if you leave the drive as is and turn the dissy to match the notch is in perfect relationship to the drive
 
Clarkson46 said:
There is a spring missing from the centre of your dizzy drive. What dizzy are you using and has it changed since rebuild?

Took the spring out to remove the drive. Using the correct 1600TP Vac Adv dizzy.
 

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