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One cent shy of US$80 is a LOT of money for a pair of hinges, even without the added cost of shipping!

Even the VW-Porsche 914's VW Type 4 style, 1970 cm³, 100 hp air-cooled engine, has relatively modest 42 mm inlet & 36 mm exhaust valves. Apart from that, the largest factory-standard valves used on the VW Type 4 style, air-cooled engine, was 41 mm inlet & 34 mm exhaust valves, for the 1795 cm³...

In September 1981, near Lake Henshaw, in southern California, I came across an abandoned Chevrolet Corvair which still had its rear-mounted, six-cylinder air-cooled engine. Sadly, I didn't have my tool kit with me and there wasn't enough spare room in my suitcase to take it home on the flight...

One of my father's patients had a salvaged 80 hp, fuel-injected, 1972 VW 412LE Variant engine (unlike the Saloon, this has same oil-filler & dipstick configuration as the 1972~79 VW 17/18/2000 Type 2 engine), who had originally intended to use it in a boat!?! Sadly, there were no engine...

If you don't want to use exotic after-market, VW Type 1 air-cooled engine parts, consider a VW Type 4 style air-cooled engine. Those from the VW 411/412 were available with 1679 cm³ (66 mm stroke x 90 mm bore) & 1795 cm³ (66 mm stroke x 93 mm bore) displacements, with 80 hp & 85 hp...

K@rlos has had his little “JOKE” and so have I! However, that said, it is probably within the scope of every 1968~79 VW Type 2 owner / driver, to experience close to perfect, stress-free gear selection; but in cases where this has been lacking, it is likely to be attributable to rectifiable...

Poor old K@rlos, he just doesn't get it! Maybe he might after attending my over-subscribed class in gear-selection techniques!?!

We also briefly had a 1974 VW 1800 Type 2 panel-van for a couple of years, during the early-1990s, from April 1991 onward, which had probably been around the clock a few times. Selecting the gears on that vehicle, seemed no more difficult than with the 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 Westfalia Continental...

The gear change was equally good the last time I drove it!

When I did my alternator conversion, I had no problem fitting & removing the upright, dynamo-style fuel pump with the alternator installed. However, I did need to modify the throttle linkage to the Minnow Fish carburettor, to clear the alternator body.

The home-built baggage trailer barely noticed the speed-humps either. The roof rack was full of lightweight items such as sleeping bags and the interior of the 1975 Toyota Hiace Mk.1 motor-caravan was carrying a full complement of passengers.

Maybe I have a superior build-quality 1973 VW 1600 Type 2, but since I first starting driving it in early-1975, gear changing has always been easy, quick and precise for all forward & reverse gears; merely requiring one to guide the gear lever with an open palm, biasing the direction of force...

When I did an alternator conversion on my 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 back in 1988/89, I used the original upright dynamo-type fuel pump, but I reduced the phenolic spacer (with integral guide-tube) thickness by 6•0 mm and shortened the push-rod by 6•0 mm; giving sufficient clearance between the...

My rear head locker has two small forward-facing, ultra-sonic transducers incorporated, for the security alarm & immobilisation system. My early-1980s vintage, Blaupunkt Toronto SQR46, four-speaker, combined radio & cassette player [FM-VHF, SHORT, medium & long wave] doesn't have a "Bluetooth"...

I am hoping to retro-fit one or more in-line, axial-flow, electric heater-booster fans, for use with the 1911 cm³ displacement, VW 17/1800 Type 4 style hybrid air-cooled engine, but I have yet to identify any of an appropriate size which will tolerate the heat. Kingfisher Customs used to offer a...

I have yet to determine what sizes & depths of speaker will conveniently fit inside my rear hatch, above the thick Westfalia Continental bed cushion and on either side of my rear-window wiper mechanism and blister-moulded trim cover.

I don't know of any hot-air blowers in the main central duct!?!

I put an extra bend in mine using a heavy-duty pipe bender, so that the gear-lever knob was close to my side in 2nd & 4th gear, without having to lean forwards when changing gear.

To what "hot air blowers" do you refer? That steel duct-work will need some decent, non-water-absorbent thermal insulation, if the "hot-air" is to remain reasonably warm when it arrives at the cab vents!

Can the draw and post a schematic diagram of your entire brake hydraulic circuit, so that we can see exactly what is connected to what, in what way. Before one attempts to modify the system any further, I think it's important to know what is going on!