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I am a 100% with you😉

Engine life is dependant on keeping the oil temps in check, so i would get the gauge if i were you. Oil pressure is also important, so a two gauge pod is a good choice. Abel

You could use the crank if you had no other choice, but i wouldn’t. There will be vibration and the life of your case will be reduced considerably. The main problem is that the flywheel shims will not be perfectly seated on the flywheel snout, so the n.1 bearing will wear quicker. For the price...

Even though the crank is bent by 0.10mm, it would be enough to make the flywheel wobble. At the crank snout, the bentness(if that word exists lol) will be really small, but it is amplified by the size of the flywheel. If you have say 0.02 or 0.03mm runout at the snout, you could easily end up...

Laping would be the first thing to do, but after laping the valves could still be leaking. Sometimes the heat moves things and the seats can distort, so laping only will not do the trick. The seat would have to be reground or re cut. You can test a valve leak by placing fuel inside the port and...

Yes, your crank is bent. To correct it needs regrinding. But before that, insert the flywheel and check for runout too. If too much, you might be better off getting another crank as the flywheel runout will make a vibration in the engine and also when pulling off with the clutch. Abel

Only a good cup of coffee is enough payment :lol: :mrgreen: Abel

If the oil level is considerably higher, it can be the fuel pump diaphragm that has a hole and allow fuel to go down the case. Worth checking that too Jonathan😁 Abel

You probably need a good valve job and remember to replace the exhaust valves. When they drop is not pretty, i have a place in one of the walls full of "trophies" resultant of dropped valves lol😁 Abel

She is looking stunning mate, looking forward to seeing it in the flesh😎 Abel

If the crank is Std, chances are the line boring is too tight. Try placing the bearings in the case, then torque it together without the crank, then use a flashlight to try and find out if there is a gap between the halves. If there is, then the line boring is tight. You can do the same test...

You can determine what saddle is tight by loosening both nuts of one saddle at the time and rotating the crank. It could also be the one or more dowels are too high, you can check that by reopening the cases and then looking for a high spot in the bearing, it will be sniny exactly where the...

Exactly, check the bores on the case as well for the line boring could be done slightly tight. Abel

Have you checked the oil level? Could be way above max. Abel

Hi, i am interested in the windscreen if crack and relatively scratch free, also on the carbs and manifolds. How much for them? Tnx Abel

Yes, for the brake servo. If your Bus doesn’t have the servo, keep the pipe blocked. Abel

It`s a plug, necessary otherwise will leak fuel there. You need to get one, maybe from a junk carb? Use the 125, after a few miles check the colour of your plugs. You want a brown darkish colour. If it`s blackish then go down to 122. If it`s whiteish then go 127 or 130. Abel

Try to find an original VW pulley, that will not give you any trouble. Abel

I also hate Hermes, the delivery driver in my area always drops the parcel at any unit in my Industrial Estate and never bother to leave a card in the post box. And the worse part is that he does that while my shop is open and i am there, which is Mon-Fri!!!! Abel

I have used the stainless version of the QP from JK a few times and it fits ok with some fiddling. The clamps tend to sit on the bar but with a bit of work it can be done. Abel