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Looks like a re- re-working of the Bulli. It would be interesting to see a real one (as opposed to one made of pixels).

Interesting. What wheels and tyres are you using?

Glad you gat it back. So good to hear a happy ending. :)

These engines are not sealed. A little suction from the inlet helps prevent/reduce oil mist emerging from behind the engine pulley. Without this there is a likelihood that when running the heater, there will be a smell of engine fumes.

From memory I think 80mm but you can measure the hole on the dash to double check. It's pretty much a standard size and any four cylinder, non computer type gauge will work. If you have electronic ignition then it's gets more complicated.

Yes 14v at the battery with engine running indicates it's working. Maybe the bulb is faulty or it's not earthing?

Agreed. Scam. They don't work.

Nice job :D Works better than I can ever remember.

Sometimes, like just now, it works - but a lot of the time over the last 2 weeks or so, it is still getting stuck. Took me about half an hour to get in to post this. (On iPad) Then it won'

Sounds like you did a nice job - and you are right, those flaps to direct the water are important

If you use stroker pistons and their correct con rods then no case machining is required and the width of the engine stays within tolerance, hence the tinware, exhaust etc all fit fine.

There is a spring on the end of the cable that fits between the cable outer and the lever arm of the brake shoe. It's this spring that prevents the pawl from disengaging from the "hook".

There's some videos on YouTube showing polishing with aluminium oxide, jewellers rouge and similar fine finishing powders. I haven't yet tried this but I suspect it's a laborious process and it seems likely it will only be applicable to very superficial scratches.

Had something similar once. Turned out a piece of rubber, broken off the the inside of the fuel line, was intermittently blocking the needle valve in the carb. Took me a while to find it because of the intermittent nature of the problem. It's also worth re checking all the electrical...

You looked at it in just the right way.

Yes your right. The 100 gives more torque at lower rpm and the 110 gives more power at higher rpm. Like most things, it's a compromise and the best choice for you depends on the way you use and drive your bus. Alternatively you can add a stroker crank, take the cc up to around 2 litres with a...

No. Backfiring is caused by leaks in the exhaust or too lean mixture. Condensation has nothing to do with either.

Find the leak and fix it :lol: Another common cause of backfiring is having the idle mixture set too lean.

About 1mm play at the wheel rim is normal when cold. Without this play the bearing will run too tight when hot. If its significantly more than than this then it can only be due to faulty bearings or play between the bearings and the hub carrier and/or stub axle. Worn bearings are easy to...

Most likely culprit is the exhaust. Check carefully for small holes, check the flanges and gaskets.